Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I can add my same experiences to this thread too.

I cracked 2 sets of 296 Dba's before I went to 324mm on the front of my 32GTR.

I have now cracked my second set of 324s. After cracking the first set, I ran ducting to the centre of the disks, and still cracked the disks.

So.... DJR81 like you I'm swaying towards the Project Mu's. How have you found them ?

And more importantly have you run them at barbagello more than once ? I can get a year of sprints out of a set of disks, but as soon as i take them to a long circuit where braking from a high speed is involved, they crack, (from the slots in the 4000's.)

Stoptechs are a second thought, but they seem to be about twice the price ?

The most annoying thing is, that if i had not given dba the benefit of the doubt I could have saved a lot of money or upgraded seriously with the same dollar amounts i have wasted.

Anyone else using Project Mu's ?? or will i crack them too ?

I also run project mu's. no issues here. But i've only run wakefield so no huge braking efforts, only from around 190km/h. I still have full stone shields and no ducting too. I'm running an r34 GTt setup on my 32gtst.

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I think that i am going to get a set of RDA's and save the money i would have spent on custom DBA's or stoptechs. Then next set will be DBA 5000's or similar.

Well a word of warning re RDAs. :D I dont think they are heat treated and in turn like the extremes of track work that well. I think the secret is not using too racey a pad. It seems pads like Endless CCX, whilst great pads, like killing rotors.

So rather then band DBA, RDA etc rotors as rubbish, i think we all jsut need to consider that if your car is being tracked, you have some decent power and grip and starting to crank some respectable times....well cheap rotors just wont do the job :D

Have to say CSC/B-Spec and G4 seem to be the best value upgrades.

That said, young Johny Boy as Unique Autosports in Sydney is the guy to speak to. He is selling the 2pce Stoptech rotors in 324mm http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_gtrbrakes.htm

If you look down the page you will also see the DBA rotors which are curved vane with fish hook slots like Alcon and AP use. I woudl rate these above the usual DBA range

Thanks for the info guys, its a set of Mu's for me.

Roy I disagree, DBA shouldnt sell the 4000's as described on their own website as "track performance" and "for extreme performance " and even 'Designed for the performance street and motorsport enthusiast", then sell them for $500 a set, when they simply arent up to the job.

So in my opinion crap may be harsh, but useful they are not.

Friends of mine who track some old school muscle run BMW disks at $70 each and they even last longer than 4000's.

Luckily the boys at Unique Autosports have put some time into giving us some further options just like you said Roy.

Love those Stoptechs but need to investigate them more before a purchase.

Thanks for the info Roy.

whitesky were are you getting the mu's from and how much for a front set fo 324mm?

Thanks for the info guys, its a set of Mu's for me.

Roy I disagree, DBA shouldnt sell the 4000's as described on their own website as "track performance" and "for extreme performance " and even 'Designed for the performance street and motorsport enthusiast", then sell them for $500 a set, when they simply arent up to the job.

So in my opinion crap may be harsh, but useful they are not.

Friends of mine who track some old school muscle run BMW disks at $70 each and they even last longer than 4000's.

Luckily the boys at Unique Autosports have put some time into giving us some further options just like you said Roy.

Love those Stoptechs but need to investigate them more before a purchase.

Project Mu's are available from good ol Greenline and also Nengun.

Pretty sure there will be more places to purchase them from too, but its hard to beat those guys prices.

At a quick look just now they are around the $700 a pair mark for 324's

If anyone knows any better, please share the knowledge .......

Project Mu's are available from good ol Greenline and also Nengun.

Pretty sure there will be more places to purchase them from too, but its hard to beat those guys prices.

At a quick look just now they are around the $700 a pair mark for 324's

If anyone knows any better, please share the knowledge .......

Cool they are the PRO's. I might see how much delivery and replacment rotors will be :thumbsup:

Project Mu's are available from good ol Greenline and also Nengun.

Pretty sure there will be more places to purchase them from too, but its hard to beat those guys prices.

At a quick look just now they are around the $700 a pair mark for 324's

If anyone knows any better, please share the knowledge .......

Mate. I don't want to cause any trouble.. but had you thought of painting your calipers any other colour other than green? I mean.. pff! Come'on.. green.. ha! :D

yep guys they are the Pros.

I checked the price of the Dba 5000's too, but I'm kinda burnt for life with DbA's by this stage.

As for you R32 TT, you'll keep . Lets see how you go on sunday big fella, and get calais engined thing of yours in to the 55's would ya, goddammit !

I can add my same experiences to this thread too.

I cracked 2 sets of 296 Dba's before I went to 324mm on the front of my 32GTR.

I have now cracked my second set of 324s. After cracking the first set, I ran ducting to the centre of the disks, and still cracked the disks.

So.... DJR81 like you I'm swaying towards the Project Mu's. How have you found them ?

And more importantly have you run them at barbagello more than once ? I can get a year of sprints out of a set of disks, but as soon as i take them to a long circuit where braking from a high speed is involved, they crack, (from the slots in the 4000's.)

Stoptechs are a second thought, but they seem to be about twice the price ?

The most annoying thing is, that if i had not given dba the benefit of the doubt I could have saved a lot of money or upgraded seriously with the same dollar amounts i have wasted.

Anyone else using Project Mu's ?? or will i crack them too ?

I found them (2 piece project Mu's) to be good. But I have only used them at Collie & the short course at Wanneroo so far. Just haven't got to the long course with the new rotors. You should get much more than a year out of a set of rotors. There is a photo of the car on the shourt course - so the things get plenty hot enough.

Thing to note with the project mu stuff is that different rotors have different amounts of vanes in them. See the photo

post-5134-1207525487_thumb.jpg

post-5134-1207525568_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Interesting read.

I'm in the process of upgrading my brakes and was thinking, RDA or DBA slotted rotors front and rear, QFM KR750 pads, and braided lines all round.

Now having read all of this it sounds like thats a bad idea as they're just going to crack....So my question is, what options are available to me? Doesn't seem to be many...

Car is a S2 R33 GTS-T, 250~rwkw, daily driven so need a pad that will work on the street as well as take some track work.

Anyone wanna help me out?

Pretty sure I'm gonna go with the QFM KR750 (A1RM) pads and some braided lines, but not sure what to do with the front rotors?

Interesting!!

Ive been running the RDA slotted rotors front and rear with no dramas thus far... *touches wood* Pads in use are Race Brakes RB74's in the front and Comp 2's in the rear. They have seen several drag and track days thus far.... No ducting or anything, well other that the inner plastic wheel arches being removed from the front half as Im too lazy to pop them back in

Although I did hot spot them at the drags last week... so I am keeping an eye on them. Texi this weekend will be a test though!

In terms of 324mm & 355mm rotors, what do people recommend? I have some alcon's that Il be using but just trying to decide on some rotors....

Ant,

Went the fully sik 2 piece option. There are some photos - some of the rotors & some for the toe fetishists. :thumbsup:

they look pretty good. quite evenly trimmed, perhaps a little long and some cleaning wouldn't hurt either. other than that it's a fine toe.

they look pretty good. quite evenly trimmed, perhaps a little long and some cleaning wouldn't hurt either. other than that it's a fine toe.

Thanks Baron, you say the nicest things. I will make sure I follow up your recommendations with my pedicurist. Mmmm, toe jam.

As to MSNismo's question, if you are going an Alcon option & need to replace rotors/brackets etc then larger makes sense.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...