Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just did some back to back testing using a pair of Blitz steel mesh pods and a stock R32 GTR airbox with paper element filter.

Car pulled 268 rwkw on 10 psi with pods. Fitted airbox and dropped 40 rwkw. Took bottom off airbox and taped panel filter in place, back up to 268 rwkw.

I was a firm believer in using the stock box and panel filter but clearly above certain power levels it has limitations. Just my 2c into the stock airbox vs pods debate.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187003-airbox-vs-pod-back-to-back-testing/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got a chance to try a 33 airbox? :)

Maybe there is a big difference, also depends on the type of panel filter.

Plenty of cars here with near enough results airbox vs pods.

Makes it interesting :)

I like the stock air boxes too, I dropped ~10rwkW when I went back to the stock air box and K&N panel. Except the dyno results were about a week apart so something could have changed. Didn't feel any difference, K&N pod was just heaps noisier.

The inlet to the side of the box is actually blocked off(r33 gtr box). It is a resonator. You can pull the end of the resonator off so air goes direcly into the box from the inner guard. u get a slight induction noise too lol

ps anyone wanna give me a guide on how to install a ebc on a rb26?? some say u just unhook the factory solenoid and plug it into the ebc solenoid?? i thoiught u would need to do it on the wastegate side??

bonnet down on those tests?

If not , we aren't anywhere.

no, bonnet open. i don't agree that we aren't anywhere. i think we can categorically state that the stock airbox will inhibit power due to the size of the orifice in the bottom half - bonnet up or down - but clearly the panel filter (tested up to those power levels) has the capacity to flow sufficient air if fed correctly.

i know there's a lot more to the issues of airflow and under bonnet dynamics but this shows conclusively that the bottom half of the box can't flow sufficient air.

i'm not suggesting that this is the be all and end all of tests, but it does tell us some things for sure. got to start somewhere, suffice to say i was happy with the outcome as i now know more than i did.

Edited by Scooby
no, bonnet open. i don't agree that we aren't anywhere. i think we can categorically state that the stock airbox will inhibit power due to the size of the orifice in the bottom half - bonnet up or down - but clearly the panel filter (tested up to those power levels) has the capacity to flow sufficient air if fed correctly.

i know there's a lot more to the issues of airflow and under bonnet dynamics but this shows conclusively that the bottom half of the box can't flow sufficient air.

i'm not suggesting that this is the be all and end all of tests, but it does tell us some things for sure. got to start somewhere, suffice to say i was happy with the outcome as i now know more than i did.

yes..

but

bonnet up with open to air pod filters will obviously breath better than a sealed box with a small intake.

bonnet down would have shown different results on the pod filters I'd say..

especially say after 2 WOT runs.

I strongly disagree that at those power figures that the bonnet open or closed would heavily influence pods at all unless heat was a serious issue, and ACT is still cold. Ther is plenty of available air around the headlight. Clearly the 32 box is a restriction but with modification, say a 90mm water pipe flange and a pipe through the inner guard 33 GTR style it would be more than adequate for most track applications.

Some pics for Duncan.

33GTR front and 32 rear

IMG_0490.jpg

33 GTR

IMG_0489.jpg

32GTR

IMG_0488.jpg

33GTR

IMG_0487.jpg

My custom box prototype on the track car using the std air filter and an internal bellmouth from the HKS pod on the inside top (the only good part of a HKS filter). It's a tight fit around the filter so the tape is only to hold it in position and the afm is mounted directly to the top. The from bar is intended to have slots to help feed it.

IMG_0486.jpg

IMG_0485.jpg

IMG_0484.jpg

It's all good mate, I majored in aerodynamics at the one uni in the country with a Mach 3 wind tunnel or what we call a shock tunnel, amongst other useful stuff.

While a simple approach would be to say that at least an extra 40rwkw would be available given Marks experience above, it depends on what the turbos are able to push, mass flow wise in Marcus' case. I forget your setup mate, but a fair guess would be a bit is available at that flow rate. Negative boost theories are all well and good but turbos have one simple role and that is to drag air in and compress it for delivery to the combustion chambers so it overcomes many restrictions, up to a point.

Mark, having a think about this and were any of the turbo inlet hoses constricting? If the restriction to the inlet was enough there may be some cross sectional reduction in the inlets between afm and turbo which is a sure way for the restriction to increase so limiting flow. If hard pipes were used, for example, then they would resist the negative pressure and allow the flow to continue. So just a thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...