Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

have some nice Rays gt2s for sale that woul be sick on the silvia... :)

My front suspension arms arrived today, so should have everythig fitted and the car on the ground this week-end. was hoping to have the engine assembled and fitted but have had an issue with valve spring retainers, so unless a replacement set arrives 2morro, the engine will probably go in next week.

nice. they were a good buy. I was nearly going to grab them as a spare set for the silvia. then remembered I already have 3 sets of rims for the silvia.... :banana:
Edited by BezerkR32
  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

... and additional front diff support bracket.

Charles do you mean the one that goes under the nose of the diff? If so, ditch it. Only the 32gtr ran this extra bracket, 33 and 34 don't use it, and neither do some big power cars I know of with theis cradle. You just need some large washers to protect the lower bush

Picked up heads after sorting out the valve train issue which ended up being a dodgy set of locks. Got a new set of Manley locks and all was sweet.

ARP head stud kit, MLS Felpro head gaskets, Comp Cam anti pump-up roller lifters, Comp Cam pushrods & Yella Terra rockers. I know that the pushrods may be a bit foreign to some people. lol. Also fitted stainless ARP exhaust manifold stud kit, as they were cheaper than GM.

Comp ended up at 10.9:1 after the deck machine, which is excellent as standard is 10:1

Will finish setting up the rocker pre-load and sit the engine in tomorro.

post-20078-1226395704_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395777_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395864_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226395949_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396046_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396124_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226396178_thumb.jpg

Picked up heads after sorting out the valve train issue which ended up being a dodgy set of locks. Got a new set of Manley locks and all was sweet.

ARP head stud kit, MLS Felpro head gaskets, Comp Cam anti pump-up roller lifters, Comp Cam pushrods & Yella Terra rockers. I know that the pushrods may be a bit foreign to some people. lol. Also fitted stainless ARP exhaust manifold stud kit, as they were cheaper than GM.

Comp ended up at 10.9:1 after the deck machine, which is excellent as standard is 10:1

Will finish setting up the rocker pre-load and sit the engine in tomorro.

Looking nice!

I hope you didn't mount the heads the way you are about to in the bottom left picture... It shows your about to mount the head in the wrong direction... (Exhaust port to the intake side...) :domokun:

yeh, was going to try something different, but it wouldnt fit lol. you dont miss much. :(

Looking nice!

I hope you didn't mount the heads the way you are about to in the bottom left picture... It shows your about to mount the head in the wrong direction... (Exhaust port to the intake side...) ;)

some hot rod guys told me there was 10kw in doing it.

Starting to bang it all together, all going sweet, i guess thats the advantage in triall fitting everything first.

ill finish fitting radiator, and dummy up engine harness so electrician can start. can also start buying bends for the exhaust

Should get a mechanic to do it, Stu.

:)

post-20078-1226479364_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479521_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479614_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479695_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479772_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226479879_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480084_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480170_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480255_thumb.jpg

post-20078-1226480336_thumb.jpg

they are off our Commodore. They are 1&3/4" primary pipes into 3". they had to be modified to fit but only slightly.

Nice!

Not long now until you can start it...

From witch car does the headers come from? Pontiac GTO?

And what are the spec on the headers?

thanks Phunky, still a while off though. hoping to have it all done for powercruise, that will give me the oportunity to run everything in and sort out any teething problems before i track it.

Looking good! Can't wait to see this thing in action

BezerkR32, amen to ya brother, forget the haters lol, mine makes 340hp on a completely stock engine with a link g4 ecu, ive owned many an rb20det and a couple work rb25dets and I have to say I enjoy my new setup the most by far. I did manage to retain my power steering though, although its so incredibly tight as you can see from the pictures, that it initially wore a hole in the starter motor:S I have the car running now, just havent updated the thread. Cant wait to see some action footage lol.

Video

http://www.bebo.com/FlashBox.jsp?FlashBoxId=8060454510

Build Thread

http://southernskylines.com/phpBB3/viewtop...f=24&t=2359

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...