Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok, serviced the car yesterday, nothing special, just oil & filter. also dropped the rubbish nulon gearbox oil out and replaced it with some Repsol synthetic matic atf. Much better.

checked and adjusted the wheel alignment,

running 6 deg caster, 3 deg neg camber and 1.5mm toe out on front.

3 deg neg camber and 1.8mm toe in on rear.

will see how it goes. Bring on wakefield.

Had a great day at Wakefield, eventually got the tune sorted after datalogging a few laps, car was very lean in places so happy to get it sorted.

Diff is tired, needs a re-build, tyres also tired, so am i, but happy with the car.

managed to real off a few 1.08s in the last session which was very good.

hope to get diff done and some tyres for SAU track day.

yeh this one is, id speak to an engineer first.

Can i just ask somethign (and i'll be honest i haven't read the whole thread) but is this a track only car? As im looking to do an LS* V8 conversion on an R32 but am aiming for street use..
Can i just ask somethign (and i'll be honest i haven't read the whole thread) but is this a track only car? As im looking to do an LS* V8 conversion on an R32 but am aiming for street use..

you may run into issues with the "you cant putting a V8 into a car under XXXXkg" rules

yeh not sure, ppl are putting vh45s in s13 silvias, whats a few extra cubes. whats a street trim 32 weigh?

you may run into issues with the "you cant putting a V8 into a car under XXXXkg" rules

Thankyou craved!!! 6.0L NA will do perfectly then!

Will have a detremental affect on turbo'ing it though....hmmm...oh well...as long as i can do it that's the main thing!

Is it true when you put a GM V8 in an R32 you have to for go the power steering?

Thankyou craved!!! 6.0L NA will do perfectly then!

Will have a detremental affect on turbo'ing it though....hmmm...oh well...as long as i can do it that's the main thing!

Is it true when you put a GM V8 in an R32 you have to for go the power steering?

They don't need turboing... It'll go like hell without one!

Think about it, take a VE Commodore with a 6.0L, what're they, 1.6T? Now drop 250KG... Throw a cam in, exhaust, tune done...

I'd have done it to mine except people want too much money!

there are also startermotor relocation kits available now which puts the starter on the other side which would solve all the issues. if your 32 goes 1350kg, you will be 450kg lighter than a VE, trust me, you dont need to turbo it. the car turns 3rd gear for fun. the torque is massive.

found a thread on sump extensions and baffeling, going to do this before next track day.

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67247482

Oh really? sweet! that'd be better than not having powersteering lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...