Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, im new on here so first of all hello to everyone.

I'm hoping you can help me out.I've purchased a Bee-r rev limiter and im having trouble wiring it in. I've printed off a few different diagrams and pinouts etc and connected it exactly as per drawing but nothing happens. It does light up every now and then but it wont limit the revs.I run a PFC and have put on the exta earthing wire but still no joy.The unit I have bought is second hand and i have noticed some differences not shown on the drawings.The two loops are different colours as to what they should be, mine are green and grey and not green and blue. (is this an older model??).Plus what are the other extra wires for ?? (ie theres a spare blue and grey wire "not looped")

I have pics if there any help

Cheers

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188506-bee-r-limiter-on-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

GREAT FOR POPPING RB'S......... seen 3 rb's now with cracked pistons from owners who abuse these things..... look at me my car sounds cool..... oops look at me its now fcked.

yeah i've heard that a bunch of times now... :happy:

is there ever really any gain from one on an unopened block, or does the danger outweigh the benefit?

yeah i've heard that a bunch of times now... :happy:

is there ever really any gain from one on an unopened block, or does the danger outweigh the benefit?

wow uras is that true

even if u set it to like 3k and get some flames going?

crazy, rofl then y bother

These are the instructions i used to install the limiter on my 34 http://www.driftworks.com/resources/bee-r-...fitting,16.html

I had the same prob with the two wires listed wrongly, btw ive had the bee r limiter on my 34 for about 12 months now with hitting it atleast once a week and hasnt missed a beat, id say there would be other problems then blaming it on the rev limiter as a excuse for there stupidity...

GREAT FOR POPPING RB'S......... seen 3 rb's now with cracked pistons from owners who abuse these things..... look at me my car sounds cool..... oops look at me its now fcked.

very interesting to hear. ive changed my mind on getting one of these now.

Yeah I'm all for them now I know what their used for. My car came with one already half installed (previous owner over 50yrs did not mention it as did not know what it was), so I did some research and found out it was an engine life saver if anything for those who don't know when to change gears.....

It is a handy engine saving device (but will aid in Diff destruction if using Launch controll which was not wired into the Handbrake) I have set mine to cut out at around 6500RPM, it cuts out your ignition not the Fuel like the standard ECU, therefore saving your engine from leaning out as the standard ECU cuts fuel, obviously the fuel pump and injectors etc is the next limitation to cause premature engine melt down. But when it cuts ignition then the engine backs off and back onagain there is a big dump of fuel that gets ignited through your exhaust, not the best thing for a Cat converter if your doing it for a flameshow as I've herd some people do.

I have herd of some people wiring in the Launch control to their clutch pedal via an electronic switch aswell which would be sweet, so when they want to launch at a cirtain rev it's just dialed into Number 1 dial, pop the clutch in hold down acceletator then let the clutch go instead of handbreak and full RPM is back on tap.

I've told my wife if she ever see's a little red light flashing at her from it to change gears quickly if she's ever in a hurry, it does help though when your giving it some all you do is watch the tacho, then the light flashes momentarily you know it's time to change gears saving your engine from a redline held gear change....

Cheers for all the advise and info, I,m going now to my mates to have another go at installing it, and to test it has he's already one fitted so can plug mine into his (make sure its not faulty being second hand). Hopefully all will go well

mike

if the gray wire is cut, then the 1st owner ran it on a 4 cylinder. The gray wire needs to be intact to operate on a 6 cylinder. and the brown wire is for rotary. so the gray wire MUSt be together for the bee-r to work on any 6 cyl

  • 5 years later...

Hey guys sorry for bringing up an old topic but rather than opening a new one I thought I'd just ask here, when you connect the bee-r to the loom, do you cut the wires off the loom so that they do not go to the computer or just splice them in, thanks for any help in advance, thanks.

Hey guys I installed my bee-r and it seems asif something not right, it doesn't pop or go ba ba ba ba it's more like baaaa and then the revs drop then baaa then the revs just drop and the car kind of goes quiet, what could this be? It's run right like once or twice but that's it, I think before I installed it my little shit of a cousin turned the knobs when I wasn't looking and I noticed that the knob can just keep on turning and not stop, do you think maybe that's something stuffed? On the installation diagram that I got from here says to connect the yellow wire to pinout 44 or 45 which one should it be on, I have it on pinout 44 is that, also it's popped engine fuse number 2 why could this be, by the way it's on my R34 gtt, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

  • 1 year later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hahah took me 2 days to figure this issue out on my r32 gtr..

Basically, Bee-R needs to know the reading from your tacho sensor. Which i believe is pin 7. Splice the green wire to the 1* CAS pin (42 i think) and the yellow wire to the Tacho sensor (pin 7) .. HAPPY DAYS .. let me know how you go or if this made any sense to you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
    • Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.
    • There's not a great deal to report here .... except ...... FOR .... LSD!!!  I bought a Quaife LSD from the UK and shipped it here .... Wish I'd just bought locally cause the shipping and duty was $700! But there were so many diffs used in the E90s I just wanted to be absolutely certain I was getting the right one so I spoke with a supplier in the UK who builds race cars and they have heaps of experience with the E90s.  I pulled the diff out which was seriously awesome - I've never done anything like that before, I must have watched 1000 videos on YT about it as well as consulting the Bentley manual. It was super easy in the end. The diff was delivered to the awesome folks at Hornsby Diffs and will be back in a few weeks. I also replaced the diff bushings with some Nolathane ones.  Really looking forward to getting it back and getting back to the track or even the skidpan.
    • yeah... the 13kg/mm springs weren't always in there, I had 10kg/mm but doing a few SMSP commanded heavier front springs. It's so good now going into T1 and T2, just need more seat time and real tyres.
×
×
  • Create New...