Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope they egsist i payed for them acouple of weeks ago http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link they are pretty similar to the noltec ones

Edited by sav man
i hope they egsist i payed for them acouple of weeks ago http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link they are pretty similar to the noltec ones

yeah they are not adjustable. sorry :D

oh no's :)

i read here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ml&hl=ikeya that they were adjustible.

the order hasn't been sent yet, hopefully i can cancel

are the UAS and Noltec the same upper arm? cause they look identicle

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/popproduct...2++++5%2F89-93#

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...pperctrlarm.jpg

Edited by sav man
oh no's :)

i read here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ml&hl=ikeya that they were adjustible.

the order hasn't been sent yet, hopefully i can cancel

are the UAS and Noltec the same upper arm? cause they look identicle

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/popproduct...2++++5%2F89-93#

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...pperctrlarm.jpg

yep UAS sell the noltec arms. good prices too. tell johnny you are an SAU member and he may even give a discount :P I bought mine at UAS.

I don't know what that guy was talking about in the other thread, but from looking at that pic the R32 front ikeya upper arms are not adjustable at all (just like the R32 cusco front upper arms). I have the ikeya catalogue here somewhere, if I can find it I will double check.

  • 4 weeks later...

so what's the general consensus regarding: eccentric bushes vs. adjustable arms?

in a nutshell;

bush for street?

arms for track?

i previously had castor/camber bushes. i've got some new whiteline eccentric bushes to try, however my mechanic (who's heavily into track work/alignments/suspension/etc); has expressed his dis-taste for the bushes. he mentioned something about changing the pivot points of the car.

would i be better off selling off the bushes and buying some arms?

keep in mind i do have the ikeya alignment kit, so i do want to have a fiddle around. (steep learning curve here)

p.s. - i realize there's quite a large difference in price with: bush vs. arms

noltec, ikeya, cusco seem to be the ones to chase after?

or should i just sit it out with the bushes i have now?

If i had an R33 and could get the alignment i need out of bushes i woudl tend to stick with them...the R32s just seem to eat them up as soon as you get some whacky camber and cator into them and start hammering the car. I went through 3 sets of front bushes...i have now had the Noltec arms in for a while, they need another 6 months and 10,000kms to see if they prove more durable then the bushes...but so far so good.

As for feeling the difference in handling by achieving the same camber by either means? If you can feel the difference then i think you could get a job testing for a major race team ;)

if you can get away using 1 bushes use it. But if you need 2 bushes then start to shop around for an adjustable ams. Costs will be cheaper than getting 2 bushes and also the labor to install the bushes.

Chubb, you could try lowering the front of your car by 1 cm which will give you a little more neg camber. Also I've bent a lower control arm (which is probably what that guy earlier in the thread who said his camber is different on each side and the aligners don't know why has happen to his car) so I can either get a second hand arm from a wreck or I was considering JJR Front Lower Adjustable Arms.

Basically these push the bottom of your wheel out rather than bring the top in like the adjustable top arms that everyone else is talking about.

Now from memory, I think that subtracting 1 degree of camber (ie, going from say, -1.5 to -2.5) takes 1/2 a degree of caster which I don't think is a big deal.

Given that we know the whiteline bushes give roughly 1.5 degrees of adjustment. I am thinking I will try the JJR lower arms, with the upper bushes adjusted all the way out, set to -1.5 then hopefully I wont have to touch the lower arms for track days, just adjust the bushes to all the way in and I should have -3 degrees.

Eug, yes the bushes do change the pivot points, but not when full in or full out. All other times yes. How much difference it makes on the street is debatable though, probably f**k all.

Eug, yes the bushes do change the pivot points, but not when full in or full out. All other times yes. How much difference it makes on the street is debatable though, probably f**k all.

sweet, thats what i want to hear. hopefully both sides are even then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
    • It sounds like you want what the Toyota Landcruisers have for their roof racks. Wanna know what you end up with? Rust holes in the roof, and water everywhere...
    • Discovered today that if I select reverse first and take my foot off the brake, then select drive, the drive indicator light works and so does the tiptronic gear indicator. 
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Does anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
×
×
  • Create New...