Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i hope they egsist i payed for them acouple of weeks ago http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link they are pretty similar to the noltec ones

Edited by sav man
i hope they egsist i payed for them acouple of weeks ago http://www.nengun.com/ikeya-formula/front-upper-link they are pretty similar to the noltec ones

yeah they are not adjustable. sorry :D

oh no's :)

i read here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ml&hl=ikeya that they were adjustible.

the order hasn't been sent yet, hopefully i can cancel

are the UAS and Noltec the same upper arm? cause they look identicle

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/popproduct...2++++5%2F89-93#

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...pperctrlarm.jpg

Edited by sav man
oh no's :)

i read here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ca...ml&hl=ikeya that they were adjustible.

the order hasn't been sent yet, hopefully i can cancel

are the UAS and Noltec the same upper arm? cause they look identicle

http://www.noltecsuspension.com/popproduct...2++++5%2F89-93#

http://www.nismo.com.au/pricelists/General...pperctrlarm.jpg

yep UAS sell the noltec arms. good prices too. tell johnny you are an SAU member and he may even give a discount :P I bought mine at UAS.

I don't know what that guy was talking about in the other thread, but from looking at that pic the R32 front ikeya upper arms are not adjustable at all (just like the R32 cusco front upper arms). I have the ikeya catalogue here somewhere, if I can find it I will double check.

  • 4 weeks later...

so what's the general consensus regarding: eccentric bushes vs. adjustable arms?

in a nutshell;

bush for street?

arms for track?

i previously had castor/camber bushes. i've got some new whiteline eccentric bushes to try, however my mechanic (who's heavily into track work/alignments/suspension/etc); has expressed his dis-taste for the bushes. he mentioned something about changing the pivot points of the car.

would i be better off selling off the bushes and buying some arms?

keep in mind i do have the ikeya alignment kit, so i do want to have a fiddle around. (steep learning curve here)

p.s. - i realize there's quite a large difference in price with: bush vs. arms

noltec, ikeya, cusco seem to be the ones to chase after?

or should i just sit it out with the bushes i have now?

If i had an R33 and could get the alignment i need out of bushes i woudl tend to stick with them...the R32s just seem to eat them up as soon as you get some whacky camber and cator into them and start hammering the car. I went through 3 sets of front bushes...i have now had the Noltec arms in for a while, they need another 6 months and 10,000kms to see if they prove more durable then the bushes...but so far so good.

As for feeling the difference in handling by achieving the same camber by either means? If you can feel the difference then i think you could get a job testing for a major race team ;)

if you can get away using 1 bushes use it. But if you need 2 bushes then start to shop around for an adjustable ams. Costs will be cheaper than getting 2 bushes and also the labor to install the bushes.

Chubb, you could try lowering the front of your car by 1 cm which will give you a little more neg camber. Also I've bent a lower control arm (which is probably what that guy earlier in the thread who said his camber is different on each side and the aligners don't know why has happen to his car) so I can either get a second hand arm from a wreck or I was considering JJR Front Lower Adjustable Arms.

Basically these push the bottom of your wheel out rather than bring the top in like the adjustable top arms that everyone else is talking about.

Now from memory, I think that subtracting 1 degree of camber (ie, going from say, -1.5 to -2.5) takes 1/2 a degree of caster which I don't think is a big deal.

Given that we know the whiteline bushes give roughly 1.5 degrees of adjustment. I am thinking I will try the JJR lower arms, with the upper bushes adjusted all the way out, set to -1.5 then hopefully I wont have to touch the lower arms for track days, just adjust the bushes to all the way in and I should have -3 degrees.

Eug, yes the bushes do change the pivot points, but not when full in or full out. All other times yes. How much difference it makes on the street is debatable though, probably f**k all.

Eug, yes the bushes do change the pivot points, but not when full in or full out. All other times yes. How much difference it makes on the street is debatable though, probably f**k all.

sweet, thats what i want to hear. hopefully both sides are even then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...