Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Map rescale tool- enables utilisation of the entire map. (no more tuning for one boost level)

Map Calc- takes your Wideband AFR info and outputs a correction value for quick and easy tuning. Also includes a cell hit table to get rid of bogus AFR values.

post-2338-1194494766_thumb.jpg

post-2338-1194845405_thumb.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
RB"s love 12's :)

Sorry, a missunderstanding. (just a tuning aid guide) Every setup is different. From load point 11 onward I would tune anywere from 12.3 -11.6

I have currently tuned for:

Inj

1.6bar Max load point 14, AFR 12.0-12.1

1.8bar Max load point 15, AFR 11.7-11.9

2.0bar Max Load point 16, AFR 11.2-11.4

Ign

30% Toluene load point 5-10 +7 degree's

load point 10-20 +6 degrees's

I also have an excel spreedsheet with has a database that I use with Datalogit to cut and past Wide Band AFR logging and outputs a corrected map in reference to a Target AFR map. Looking into making this automatic. Will post up soon.

would you tune a rb on 30psi on 12's?

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :)

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :thumbsup:

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :(

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

Do you tune for a living DANGERMAN4??

we are not talking martins tunes alone here, it just happens to be one of his... many top level tuners delve far leaner than 12 and 12.5. look at le mans cars etc

i also plainly said on cusomers cars they will get the plain jane tune, mates though always get the more agressive tunes as thier cars are well know by me therefore i am more able to exploit them safely..... never ever lost or hurt an engine.

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :P

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :D

Roger, Roger..this is definately an area I haven't had much experience in.

HKS 2510, 2530, 2540 Comparison Dyno Chart Added on 2nd post (272Cams)

Still have the Excel files to add for you guys if I can work out how...............

Edited by BOOSTD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...