Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Map rescale tool- enables utilisation of the entire map. (no more tuning for one boost level)

Map Calc- takes your Wideband AFR info and outputs a correction value for quick and easy tuning. Also includes a cell hit table to get rid of bogus AFR values.

post-2338-1194494766_thumb.jpg

post-2338-1194845405_thumb.jpg

Edited by BOOSTD
RB"s love 12's :)

Sorry, a missunderstanding. (just a tuning aid guide) Every setup is different. From load point 11 onward I would tune anywere from 12.3 -11.6

I have currently tuned for:

Inj

1.6bar Max load point 14, AFR 12.0-12.1

1.8bar Max load point 15, AFR 11.7-11.9

2.0bar Max Load point 16, AFR 11.2-11.4

Ign

30% Toluene load point 5-10 +7 degree's

load point 10-20 +6 degrees's

I also have an excel spreedsheet with has a database that I use with Datalogit to cut and past Wide Band AFR logging and outputs a corrected map in reference to a Target AFR map. Looking into making this automatic. Will post up soon.

would you tune a rb on 30psi on 12's?

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :)

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :thumbsup:

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

for a general customer no, for a good mate with a known setup.... quite often :(

many RB26 tuners swear by the 12.0-12.2ish rule a good example is page 94 of the current HOT4S mag (diatribe i know) well know and respected tuning house willall racing has a dyno graph up with one of martins tunes featured running 12.2ish on a 300rwkw GTR

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

martins tunes...

hahaha what a joke,

Martin says wow it makes good power,

1 week later BOOM.

and im not talking about a stock engine.

read into that what you will but i wouldnt recomend uras advising people to take there afr over 12 when running over

1.5 bar. sounds painfully expensive when something minor goes wrong, like bad fuel or a broken alternator belt causing your fuel pump to slow down and you all know what happens from there. shit starts happening real quick once your over 12.5 heading to 13 afr while doing 7500rpm

Do you tune for a living DANGERMAN4??

we are not talking martins tunes alone here, it just happens to be one of his... many top level tuners delve far leaner than 12 and 12.5. look at le mans cars etc

i also plainly said on cusomers cars they will get the plain jane tune, mates though always get the more agressive tunes as thier cars are well know by me therefore i am more able to exploit them safely..... never ever lost or hurt an engine.

I find I comes down to each individual injector/fuel rail/pump setup. The key is to get even AFR's between ALL cylinders. Once this is acheived, leaner AFR's can be run more safetly. I have the standard fuel rail....with upto 6bar of fuel pressure at times. Will be replacing it with a center feed item before retuning.

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :P

my advice is forget the centre feed rail idea. use the centre port for the reg and have a twin feed (1 in each end). from what I know it's a better way to do it. just split your fuel feed into 2 after the fuel filter. :D

Roger, Roger..this is definately an area I haven't had much experience in.

HKS 2510, 2530, 2540 Comparison Dyno Chart Added on 2nd post (272Cams)

Still have the Excel files to add for you guys if I can work out how...............

Edited by BOOSTD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...