Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

im pretty new to the whole turbo world.

I have a Series 2 R33 GTST with pod filter, catback exhaust and turbotech boost controller.

I am running 12 psi and decided to perform a modification that was feature in the latest High Performance Imports magazine.

The modification involved cutting out 1 inch of the rubber intake pipe and installing a metal pipe in place of the rubber that was removed. This was done to ensure the rubber pipe stays all the way open during boost. According to HPI under high boost the rubber intake pipe can occassionally suck in on its self during high amounts of boost resulting in lost power.

Anyway.

As i am driving and hold my foot flat to the floor i hit 13psi and the car just backs off all of a sudden it scares the shit outta me.

What have i done??

Is this the wastegate opening??

I know the boost im running isnt safe, but if only hit 13psi twice and the car has lost all power both times. At the moment im trying to drive it on vacuum until my mechanic down tunes the boost to 10psi.

Does anyone know what i have done wrong??

Thanks

You are hitting rich and retard. The ECU richens the fuel mix and retards the timing, so you dont damage the engine. Run 10psi, much safer.

Edited by stolen_s15

EDIT - beaten to it..

it's not about safe.

it's about airflow.

R33 and over 10psi of airflow on stock ecu = rich and retard which you will feel as a bad missfire/power loss/jerking type thing.

with the FMIC it will be worse.

the air will be cooler therefore more dense which will mean it will cut out at lower revs say about "4500rpm"

you need some sort of ecu controling thing.

Cheap = SAFC

expensive and better = aftermarket programable ECU (Power FC, MICROGUESS, WOLF, etc etc)

Edited by GTST
i hit R&R the other day for the first time when i installed an tuned my ebc. freaks you out abit hey...ha i run mine on 11psi which i find safe.

yeah, it scared the absolute shit out of me.

I thought they didnt make SAFC's anymore?

might just need to get a second hand one if thats the case.

considering there is metal reinforcing on the rb25 intake pipe as it is you'd have to be running a LOT of boost...

I have seen one do it with only 260rwkw, took ages trying to work it out on the road, but a good tuner shoudl diagnose ti pretty quick on a dyno.

Edited by stolen_s15

ive found that every s and r series turbo car has the reinforcement inside the intake pipr, its not a steel tube if that what your looking for, its just a spring that winds itself arount the intake pipe

Mate of mine has a drift R32 2 door with a 25 in it and found a major power drop one night at a drift prac.... pulled into the pits and while free revving the engine the intake pipe was sucking closed.... they had a look at the pod air filter which was almost black it was that dirty... blew some compressed air through it and all was sweet again. only making 220 rwkw on 1.1 bar too so power is not so much a factor with the stock intake pipe

hmmm maybe someone took mine out, it had a pod on it when i bought it, definitely nothing in there like a spring.

I might give the steel pipe insert a crack for something to do

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...