Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

these thought all started by a forum member that had me thinking for a while and i need answers now (bastard)

the first pic is your seen this 1000 times manifold sold in performance shops and ebay.from $200-$800 so far people say there shit.

the second i have not seen many times and am wondering if they would be any good or if any one has one,they look ok to me but maybe to a high quality forum specialist might be able to advise me.

also these 6boost manifold dose any one have proof that they work,i know people say they don't crack but is there proof of gains.ive read posts in the past but after a while still no real answer!!

Quick list of mods,greedy intake manifold,hks gtrs,hks cams,forged pistons&rods,power fc,nismo injectors +++++++ all mods

if anyone can help that would be nice.

first pic ebay copy

second hpi manifold,copy or not i dont know.

post-26570-1199346488_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347755_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347764_thumb.jpg

post-26570-1199347820_thumb.jpg

Edited by WARLORD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/200047-manifolds-do-they-dont-they/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i Bought the first manifold off ebay and it didnt even fit.

Had to drill the holes out bigger for it to fit onto the studs then i finally got it on it would hit the mount tat supports the intake pipe just before the butterfly.

my mate has a vl turbo with the 6boost manifold with a stock internal engine and a t66 turbo. The spool time is almost instant. Its farkin insane

i have met kyle and he has showed me his manifolds and the merge collector on them is awesome. A+ quality and a top dude.

Also Mark from godzilla motorsports that has a r32 gtr, that now i believe runs 8.34 has a 6boost manifold on his car.

If ya looking at a manifold go check out 6boost first.

my mate has a vl turbo with the 6boost manifold with a stock internal engine and a t66 turbo. The spool time is almost instant. Its farkin insane

i have met kyle and he has showed me his manifolds and the merge collector on them is awesome. A+ quality and a top dude.

Also Mark from godzilla motorsports that has a r32 gtr, that now i believe runs 8.34 has a 6boost manifold on his car.

If ya looking at a manifold go check out 6boost first.

thanks for the info does your mate have a before and after ,power wise

the second one is just another version of cheap shit which looks attractive to the untrained eye.

dont be a stingy ass and go out and get yourself a 6-boost or hks gt- cast manifold to complement the reast of

your mods

very good .......sharp eye :down: now where can i find a hks manifold ive looked for a while,and as for a 6boost manifold it would be nice to see how many people really got a good result,and how many of these are being used by sau members .

these thought all started by a forum member that had me thinking for a while and i need answers now (bastard)

the first pic is your seen this 1000 times manifold sold in performance shops and ebay.from $200-$800 so far people say there shit.

the second i have not seen many times and am wondering if they would be any good or if any one has one,they look ok to me but maybe to a high quality forum specialist might be able to advise me.

also these 6boost manifold dose any one have proof that they work,i know people say they don't crack but is there proof of gains.ive read posts in the past but after a while still no real answer!!

Quick list of mods,greedy intake manifold,hks gtrs,hks cams,forged pistons&rods,power fc,nismo injectors +++++++ all mods

if anyone can help that would be nice.

ok the first one is utter shit and gives zero incerease anywhere, the second ones design is killer and is based one the HPI one.... i know i helped to develop them.

the HPI and similar manifolds were originally developed by myself, EVAN and finally built by GIZZMO NZ the prototypes were then sent off to ********* factory to be manufactured..... a month later it was available ex HPI who just happens to use the same supplier.... it has now been copied by at least 4 other factories in taiwan and china.

as for performance there was no drawbacks and a clear increase accross the board (all original testing done with std turbo).... it took four prototypes to get right and many months of work on a dynapack to compare designs.

NO other local manufactured manifold can compete with that (HPI) design for response or power and factory turbo placement so all your normal dumps and front fit without modification..

ok te first one is utter shit and gives zero incerease anywhere, the second one is killer and is based one the HPI one.... i know i helped to develop them.

the HPI and similar manifolds were originally developed by myself, EVAN and finally built by GIZZMO NZ the prototypes were then sent off to ********* factory to be manufactured..... a month later it was available ex HPI who just happens to use the same supplier.... it has now been copied by at least 4 other factories in taiwan and china.

as for performance there was no drawbacks and a clear increase accross the board (all original testing done with std turbo).... it took four prototypes to get right and many months of work on a dynapack to compare designs.

intrested to know how much do you/they sell them for?

a few years back i was reading HPI magazine, they had a article on S/S manifolds and cast iron manifolds.....

does it really make a diffrents? besides how much heat one manifold can take? and weight? :)

in really depends on the application, i prefer on GTR's to leave the factory manifolds and heat shields in place but in sr20 for example anything over 230ish i will turf the manifold in favour of a few proven designs (not the cheap genric crap), up until the rb25 manifold was available i would never consider changing the factory item, even on small high mounts i would make up an adapter to lift turbo and run a gate pipe down for the waste gate as the factory manifold flowed OK'ish and combined with a good heatshield provided good results at a very low cost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...