Manifolds Do They Don't They

[Devils_Advocate21]

Yes the ol full race, specially designed for twin scroll turbo's There has been a discusion related in regards to these back when disco had the topic of twin scroll vs single or so the alikes of the thread was called. The only problem looking at + 2.2g for one of these manifolds before tax and all are taken into account, still top mounted as far as i can see as well, but very well inpar with kyles (6boosts) manifolds only double the price before you start. Not taking into account the t4 flange vs the majority of people running t3 t25 type flanges. Again really only appropriate type manifold for twin scroll turbos.

Cheers A

[DCIEVE]

kyle, very interesting to see the cressy runs twin wastegates? What is the cost to make this change to an existing 6boost manifold (and I guess for the guys buying new what is the cost to option up on a new one).

Edited January 5, 2008 by DCIEVE

[R31Nismoid]

Yer, the full-race bear is just sensational pieces of work.

Carrys a $$ price, but then you GET what you pay for there without a doubt

[strong]

On the site they also carry a T3 flange manifold and yes they are top mount

[Equinox]

I've noticed that on my stock SR20 manifold, the 1-4 and 2-3 cylinder runners are grouped in a twin-scroll arangement. This would be a contribution factor in how it is so responsive correct?

Are there any aftermarket manifolds which also group the cylinders based on firing order for the SR20? Those Full-Race ones do not appear to...

[6BOOST]

Well, trying to remember all the questions....

I cannot produce a stock replacement manifold for the RB engine, and any manifold that does fit this position would be a complete waste of money, there is simply NO room to fit a collector of any description in there, the turbo points straight at the block and is like 2" away from the exhaust port. If I built something, it would look like something from nasa and have shit going everywhere, pipes looping out and back in, would be a nightmare and a compromise if it could even be built. The stainless replacements crack very very easily, and are very poor, a friend who used to work for Tighe cams has a 25/30 VL with a GT35, it didn't make full boost till 4300rpm with one of those things, this cam all the way back to 3700-3800rpm when he put mine on there(sorry, no dyno graphs, not everyone gives these types of things to me) You would be far better off just getting the factory item extrude honed and ported, very good gains, long lasting product.

As for taking a photo of the dyno graph, that is something I can do, I'll take some pics in the next day or so and post them up of back tpo back comparisons. I would however not like to turn this into a 6boost thread or for sale thread, and will point out that similar gains should be expected of most merge collector style manifolds, the information will purely be for a comparitive purpose to show that a well designed manifold dows and will actually be a benifit.

Chrisman, of the few locally produced manifolds around, most come with an unlimited klm lifetime warranty, so should you have the same problems with cracking I'm sure it would be fixed for you no questions asked.

The full race manifolds are a work of art, something I will aspire to build to some day, however they have something like 40 staff, and most of us have 1 or 2, their manifolds are the price they are because of the development and cost of machinery it takes to produce them. I still don't like the stainless factor, and think you'd find after 4-5 years of street use you'll start to see some cracks appear, I did 1 manifold for a customer in stainless steampipe 3 years ago, he is a ticketed pressure vessel welder and works on the mines welding, and welded it himself, and it has cracked at least once that I know of under the collector, it is a T76 RB26 nissan producing around 600hp at all 4 with a single entry style collector. The full race manifolds are a very very nice product, but as mentioned, at 2200 plus shipping and taxes, it would be an expensive investment, that apart from looks, I don't think would outperform the local product.

Twin gate outlets cost no extra over normal outlet, call me if you need yours changed on already completed manifold

Huddy, most of the asian manifold companies, no matter who they are, prob produce 10-50 times the amoutn of manifolds most of us custom guys can, they simply have to do it the most cost effective way, and as such, the way they piece them together is the easiest way. I'm sure someday one of those companies is going to look very closely at mine or leighs manifolds and go and work out how to do a cheap or stainless pretty version of it, but till then, they just cut and split mandrel bent pipes to fit together on a jig. Secondly, no matter how much me or anyone else screams the praises of mild steel, "Pretty Manifolds" sell, and always will, especially in the US and asia where it would be very hard for me to sell a product unless I silver ceramic coated it, so for this reason, stainless manifolds will ALWAYS remain common place for these companies.

Hope that answers a few questions, I'll get some pics of comparisons for you all to look at in the next few days.

6BOOST

[WARLORD]

Well, trying to remember all the questions....

I cannot produce a stock replacement manifold for the RB engine, and any manifold that does fit this position would be a complete waste of money, there is simply NO room to fit a collector of any description in there, the turbo points straight at the block and is like 2" away from the exhaust port. If I built something, it would look like something from nasa and have shit going everywhere, pipes looping out and back in, would be a nightmare and a compromise if it could even be built. The stainless replacements crack very very easily, and are very poor, a friend who used to work for Tighe cams has a 25/30 VL with a GT35, it didn't make full boost till 4300rpm with one of those things, this cam all the way back to 3700-3800rpm when he put mine on there(sorry, no dyno graphs, not everyone gives these types of things to me) You would be far better off just getting the factory item extrude honed and ported, very good gains, long lasting product.

As for taking a photo of the dyno graph, that is something I can do, I'll take some pics in the next day or so and post them up of back tpo back comparisons. I would however not like to turn this into a 6boost thread or for sale thread, and will point out that similar gains should be expected of most merge collector style manifolds, the information will purely be for a comparitive purpose to show that a well designed manifold dows and will actually be a benifit.

Chrisman, of the few locally produced manifolds around, most come with an unlimited klm lifetime warranty, so should you have the same problems with cracking I'm sure it would be fixed for you no questions asked.

The full race manifolds are a work of art, something I will aspire to build to some day, however they have something like 40 staff, and most of us have 1 or 2, their manifolds are the price they are because of the development and cost of machinery it takes to produce them. I still don't like the stainless factor, and think you'd find after 4-5 years of street use you'll start to see some cracks appear, I did 1 manifold for a customer in stainless steampipe 3 years ago, he is a ticketed pressure vessel welder and works on the mines welding, and welded it himself, and it has cracked at least once that I know of under the collector, it is a T76 RB26 nissan producing around 600hp at all 4 with a single entry style collector. The full race manifolds are a very very nice product, but as mentioned, at 2200 plus shipping and taxes, it would be an expensive investment, that apart from looks, I don't think would outperform the local product.

Twin gate outlets cost no extra over normal outlet, call me if you need yours changed on already completed manifold

Huddy, most of the asian manifold companies, no matter who they are, prob produce 10-50 times the amoutn of manifolds most of us custom guys can, they simply have to do it the most cost effective way, and as such, the way they piece them together is the easiest way. I'm sure someday one of those companies is going to look very closely at mine or leighs manifolds and go and work out how to do a cheap or stainless pretty version of it, but till then, they just cut and split mandrel bent pipes to fit together on a jig. Secondly, no matter how much me or anyone else screams the praises of mild steel, "Pretty Manifolds" sell, and always will, especially in the US and asia where it would be very hard for me to sell a product unless I silver ceramic coated it, so for this reason, stainless manifolds will ALWAYS remain common place for these companies.

Hope that answers a few questions, I'll get some pics of comparisons for you all to look at in the next few days.

6BOOST

excellent thanks for all the info looking forward to seeing the dyno's

[PM-R33]

I cannot produce a stock replacement manifold for the RB engine, and any manifold that does fit this position would be a complete waste of money, there is simply NO room to fit a collector of any description in there, the turbo points straight at the block and is like 2" away from the exhaust port. If I built something, it would look like something from nasa and have shit going everywhere, pipes looping out and back in, would be a nightmare and a compromise if it could even be built.

Yeah i thought that would be the reason why, bugger all room to play around with.

[WARLORD]

still no proof

[Guilt-Toy]

6boost can sponsor me a manifold and i will do a before and after dyno read outs compared to my SS version i have.

[WARLORD]

6boost can sponsor me a manifold and i will do a before and after dyno read outs compared to my SS version i have.

good idea ,but since i started this i can be sponsored ,how is your ss manifold any good

[RaZ_TuRbO]

I have seen Kyles work on 3 different mates cars and its nothing short of brilliant, im sorry he is the best in my eyes. I was also was lucky enough to see his rolla panelvan crack into the sub 10sec mark..insane!

[VB-]

still no proof

no proof of what? that his manifolds work?

[LTHLRB]

to be honest warlord.. any manifold WILL work.. i just put on a $250 manifold SS from slide performance with a 35R .63 and a modified external wastegate outlet.. reeld off 295kw on 18psi with response at 3500 pulling all the way to 7,000rpm..

obviously if u buy a 6boost one it will be made better, last longer and probably come on boost better with the design.. or you can go all out and buy a hks one or the full race manifold..

[WARLORD]

no proof of what? that his manifolds work?

of gains on a dyno you have read this hole tread, i know they are stronger and built better.

[LTHLRB]

course there would be gains.. in response and overall better flow i would imagine.. just ask kyle.. nah havnt been bothered reading this thread

[rb26s13]

I did 1 manifold for a customer in stainless steampipe 3 years ago, he is a ticketed pressure vessel welder and works on the mines welding, and welded it himself, and it has cracked at least once that I know of under the collector, it is a T76 RB26 nissan producing around 600hp at all 4 with a single entry style collector.

thats exactly wat i wanted to hear ive been tryin to find out if anyone had used the stainless steam pipe for a manifold before and now i have and a result.. still cracks..

[SABBAi]

Thanks for the reply 6boost. PM sent mate.

[6BOOST]

Geez, anyone would think business owners have nothing better to do than sit on the computer and answer pm's, emails and posts, its been less than a week, the first week back from christmas, try having a look at the times I reply and get an idea of what time I finish work, shower, eat, and get to sit down sometimes FFS Warlord................

Now, 2 dyno graphs, first is SR20 from mercury motorsport. No other changes to car, simply back to back manifold change. Its a bit shit in terms of the fact previously, the car made 30psi, and fell away to 27psi. And afetr changing the manifold due to where they wanted the gate, it came on to 18psi of boost and creeps to 23. Even still, you can see it spools 250rpm sooner, and makes another 38rwhp on 5psi less boost, at 6300rpm, its making the same power on 8-9psi less boost. This setup went on to make 568rwhp on 35psi and race fuel and is number 3 in the street rwd under 2.4 litre records in hpi.

Second is a well known evo, has runs 9's and done 600+ dyno pulls, I made the offer to build a manifold for free to see the results on a big HP car, this thing had already laid down 640awhp on gas and the manifold off it was actually quite nice. I copied the exact flange position, and the manifold was back to back tested on the same night with no tuning changes. The black line is their manifold, the thin black line is my manifold with a small round hole(we were testing outlet shapes and sizes, and for a 700+hp car, the small hole was just too restrictive), and the red line was after 40min work with the die grinder to port match the manifold from a round hole to the same rectangle as the turbo. The results?? 380rpm faster spool, 40hp at all 4 wheel son the same boost, and they since went to bigger cams and more tuning, and still is as resposive as the previous manifold and now makes 704awhp NO GAS. NOTE: The last and biggest number graph stops short simply because being a highly tuned race engine and with half a season under its belt, they didn't want to keep revving the thing when it was obviously making more grunt. You can see the spool gain in the previous run with smaller outlet that was taken all the way to redline for proof.

Now, at the time, I had nothing to do with mercury. and their results are completely unbiased, I Wasn't even there when they dyno'd it. The other car I still have nothing to do with the shop that dyno'd it and I can assure you they would do me no favours in making my product look good, this also was a completely unbiased result. I have more, but its 12.30am, and thats all I have time for tonight. There ya go Warlord, you have proof, now go make it worth all the compliants and demands and actually buy something.......

6BOOST

Edited January 13, 2008 by 6BOOST

[6BOOST]

PS, also note the 300LB's more tractive effort on the EVO after mani change.

6BOOST

Edited January 13, 2008 by 6BOOST