Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

First Car:

1987 Toyota Corolla Seca CS

Second Car:

1991 KF Ford Laser TX3 N/A

7.jpg

Current Cars:

1999 AU Ford Fairlane Ghia (V8 on LPG) (This is my daily)

2604927.jpg

1993 Nissan 180sx

13102007023a.jpg

Ferah, I'm almost the same, but 3 out of my 4 cars have been white :P

Not including the cars I've bought cheap to resell:

1984 Subaru Sherpa

1993 Toyota Corolla

1991 Toyota Sera

1992 Nissan 180SX (bought it in 1999, crashed it in 2000 and converted it to S15 front... back then only Bomex made conversion parts)

1993 Nissan R32 GTS

1983 Toyota AE86

1990 Nissan Cefiro (Still got it, dad drives it now)

1991 Nissan R32 GTS4 (Still got it, daily driver)

1989 Nissan R32 GTSt

1990 Nissan R32 GTR

1993 R33 GTSt

1999 Nissan Silvia S15

1994 Nissan Silvia S14 (Still got it, for sale)

lol I'm sure there's more to come. I'm sure one day I'll be able to say I've owned the entire spec range in the R32... only GTE, GXi and GTS25 to go.

In order:

R33 GTS Silver

R32 GTST Black

R33 GTST Burgundy

S5 RX7 13BT White

180sx. Silver

R32 GTR (current.) Purple

R34 GT-T (current.) Black.

Nice mix of colours ey.

AND I've just put a deposit on an R34 GTR! My dream car (well at least until the R35 came along...)

Selling both my cars to pay the rest of the balance, import, comply, register etc. (Shameless plug... :) )

Edited by IOWNU

1986 Mazda 323 1.6l

That thing was tough. Not fast at all but I took it off Mount Dandenong one time (yay for no brakes) and still drove it home. It died with about 140,000k's on the clock when it did a head gasket. Wasn't worth repairing, so I went and got my 33. It had almost bald tyres and being front wheel drive was great fun. Miss that car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...