Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

i was just wondering about what would be involved with removing a turbo from a gtst. I got my p plates a few weeks ago and have been a keen skyline fan for many years now and am look to buy a R32 or R33 as my first car. But due to the new p plate law in queensland i am unable to drive a car with a turbo so i have been looking for a gts. But as i have found out that a gts in my price range is a bit hard to come by ( as i am a 1st year apprentice ) so i was thinking of just buying a gtst in my price range and removing the turbo if it is all possible to do with costing lots of money. Any help will be greatly welcome.

Cheers Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202342-removing-a-turbo-from-a-gtst/
Share on other sites

Congrats on getting your Ps...now...i firmly beleive that a rwd turbo like a skyline or silvia is not a good first car for a novice driver...and i think that many will back me up on this...i'd recommend trying something alittle more forgiving before you tread this path...

Now as for de-turboing a skyline...if that is what you are talking about...there is no way of doing it...not without changing a fair load of stuff...and after that...it will still run like crap and be slower than a NA equivalent due to lower compression...so...don't take it the wrong way but its a stupid idea...you are better off buying a NA skyline first and then swapping the motors at a much later date after you get more driving experience and can afford it...

If i read your post right you are saying that in qld it is cheaper to get a gtst than a gts??

Im also guessing that the power to weight ratio laws are the same as in in vic and im pretty sure that in vic you can drive an R32 gtst on your p's.

in my opinion, i honestly wouldnt think its worth all the hassle deturboing a car. Because it is for a first car as well, you shouldnt spend too much on it. If there were any more problems afterwards then it will definetely cost more to fix.

I reckon getting a skyline for a first is a good choice as long as ur SENSIBLE about driving it. its also good experience coz the way i see the restrictions are a good thing of keeping ppl safe but as soon as ppl jump into a high powered car straight after they get their fulls, then they wouldnt know how to handle it which can also be just as bad.

The point of buying Nissan is for a turbo IMO.

If you're going NA (that's the only realistic option) there's better NA's than Nissan for several reasons (such as any Honda will be lighter than an R33 = economical, good for apprentice wages) and why bother with something that isn't great to begin with :ph34r: .

I'd go a Civic/Integra or Celica with light mods (exhaust/intake/ECU/increase compression a little) until full licence. Still fun but realistic. Keep for a year or two and learn how to take corners (if you're a virgin :) ).

I got my R33 at 22 years old, full licence, and appreciate it heaps more cause I was driving a dog box corolla for all these years.

Edited by R338OY
The point of buying Nissan is for a turbo IMO.

If you're going NA (that's the only realistic option) there's better NA's than Nissan for several reasons (such as any Honda will be lighter than an R33 = economical, good for apprentice wages) and why bother with something that isn't great to begin with :ph34r: .

I'd go a Civic/Integra or Celica with light mods (exhaust/intake/ECU/increase compression a little) until full licence. Still fun but realistic. Keep for a year or two and learn how to take corners (if you're a virgin :) ).

I got my R33 at 22 years old, full licence, and appreciate it heaps more cause I was driving a dog box corolla for all these years.

the new laws state you can't do any performance mods on your p's, well that's in nsw, don't know about qld

There are a number of threads similar to this, but i swear there was a post if you remove the turbo, it is still registered and classed as a turbo vehicle?? may be wrong but swear i read it on one similar post.

Hope that helps

hey i have a N/A skyline and i would recomend it better than deturboing a car. keeps the compression and would there be problems with computer not recognising a turbo there just wondering

whats your budget cause there are some nice n/a's out there mine goes fine good power and can easily drop turbo in later

just get a gts4

R32 GTS4's are turbos, R33's are non turbo as they have an rb25 engine and that with 4WD would be too close to a GTR. Well thats the reasoning i heard way back when i got mine. I agree with r33boy if you want something you can enjoy with a bit of grunt then stick to a smaller car. a big NA skyline really doesnt put a smile on your face when the foot goes down.

Well i am not sure if the laws are the same between NSW and QLD all i know is that i cannot drive a car with a turbo, heavily modded engine or a v8. I am looking to spend around $10 to $15 K all depends how much i have saved up by the end of the year and how much i will be able to borrow. As for a gtst costing more then a gts in QLD there are not alot of gts for sale that i can find right now but i have not been looking really hard just looking for now. There are a few gts that i have found but they are either auto or cost more then $15 K. And i mean no offence to all your guy who have a skyline thats auto but really having an ayuto skyline just would not be the same. Also about the being sensible i am a pannelbeater and have seen some pretty messed up cars from people doing stupid things and i am not like that. Speeding, drifting and burnouts should be done either at the drags or on a race track.

Thanks all for your posts they have helped me with this.

Chris

Why not look around for a dinged up late model honda, should be able to make money, and enjoy the driving experience?PS a VTi-R is about as quick as a GTS-t, so you can have your cake and eat it too.

Edited by Adriano

i would be unsure of how u could BUY a turbo if u cant one have one?!?!

and even if u deturbo it and replace piping and electronic, what are u going to do about the VIN? and the other ID plates?

  • 3 months later...

i have a 33 4door gtst and last month my turbo carked it, since then i have bought a new one but have not got around to installing it yet.

point being:

i have a fmic and simply removed the piping going over the top of the engine block blocked off the end coming from the cooler and blocked where the pod and airflow metre was and put my pod and afm straight onto the throttle body. works fine. admittably not quite as powerful as NA and a hell of a lot louder. but no running issues at all.

in saying this i live in qld and previous posts are correct if the car is manurfactured as turbo, v8 or is modified fo rperformance in any way, p platers cannot register in their name or drive these cars as at 29/06/07.

neway good luck choosing you first ride mate.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...