Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all!!! :geek:

I'm looking around for a good detailer to clean up my car and give the paint a good buff. I was looking around and realised there are hundreds of detailers around, and they're all going to tell me they're the best :devil: .

So.... who here can recommend a detailer? And does anyone have any before and after shots of their car? Also if you can remember what they cost, that would be appreciated too.

THanks in advance guys!

:P:D:D Peanut butter jelly time! :banana::banana::banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202432-sydney-best-detailer/
Share on other sites

I've used SCW to wax and polish a number of my cars and I know they do cutt and buff too. They are pretty good, and use meguirars products. they are on broadway just near city road. sydney car wash.

B&B Auto Detailing.

Used to be a mobile business based at Winmalee with his son although he has recently moved into a unit over on Coombes Drive off Correen Avenue. He does my work van and has done my neighbours 68 Camaro with very good results. It's not uncommon for them both to spend 3-5hrs on a car for under $200.

Not to take the spotlight away from an SAU'er or anything, but the Euro crowd seem to sing endless praises about this guy:

http://www.drdetail.com.au/

Disclaimer: That website has been "under construction" for about 2 years, and I have never used his services, but am thinking about it.

Not to take the spotlight away from an SAU'er or anything, but the Euro crowd seem to sing endless praises about this guy:

http://www.drdetail.com.au/

Disclaimer: That website has been "under construction" for about 2 years, and I have never used his services, but am thinking about it.

Had a chat to him a little while ago, about swirl removal on my V35. He came out and seemed very good, but was also very pricey for me.

The quote was over $300 just for swirl removal. I have alot of Zaino stuff and was going to do all the washing, polishing/sealing myself, and he was going to remove the swirls.

If your prepared to travel to the Northern Beaches I can recommend an EXCELLENT detailer.

He does all the work for the panel beaters up stairs, who are the best around (Mercedes specialist).

He did my whole car after an accident (and total respray), and did an excelent job.

He fully detailed the interior and put fabric protection on the seats and carpet. I also had paint protection on the paint job (shit's all over polish). The paint protection gives the duco and unbelievable shine.

The paint protection cost $300 and comes with a 3 year guarantee, then after 3 years you have it re done (no more polishing). I can't remember how much he charged for the interior, I think he did it for about $100 (as I had the paint protection as well).

I can't give you any before photo's, as the cars been resprayed, attched are some after shots.

If you want to contact him, send me a PM.

post-27251-1200966487_thumb.jpg

post-27251-1200966637_thumb.jpg

post-27251-1200966690_thumb.jpg

post-27251-1200966738_thumb.jpg

post-27251-1200966801_thumb.jpg

Thanks alot for all your replies and clever answers (nick!)

Once again, you've all been really helpful... well almost all of you :( I guess cheap entertainment is helpful while at work too though :banana:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...