Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

afaik most places aren't too keen on retrimming s/wheels as they are so fiddly and difficult to get right, this means they end up costing as much as a new s/wheel. If there is someone that will do it though I might be interested.

all r32 wheels look like they've been chewed by a dog haha.

These threads might help

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...hl=retrim+wheel

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...hl=retrim+wheel

expect to pay around $400~

I was thinking about a retrim, but then i see so many other nice looking wheels that i could buy instead.

whats the legal limit of a steering wheel? i have a series 1 r33, i don't like the size of the wheel, wouldn't mind something a bit smaller

I would also say Gary Blackman. He did a few bits and pieces on the Lambo Spider. He has some of the best cars in the sometimes too.

Oh and legal limit of steering wheels is listed on vicroads website somewhere. Spend five or ten minutes looking there.

Yep i'd definitely go to Gary Blackman; Ant's was done there too.

I'm guessing "Cremorne" is in Richmond or close enough to be called Richmond.

Hulk: I think the legal limit is about 330mm or 350mm in diameter, not 100% sure though :). Also to be legal the s/wheel MUST have a padded center.

FYI

If it's a r32 steering wheel you want retrimmed and you want it to look as close to stock as possible then Gary will tell u to try and find a good 2nd hander. That's what he told me and that's what i did.

If u don't mind it looking like it's been retrimmed then he does a top job (have seen his work)

Yeah i want to fit a momo but i like the original wheel though plus i need the centre to be padded (I dont want more reasons to get a defect lol) I saw a steering wheel go yesturday on eBay it ended @ around the $300 mark which still wasnt perfect so i'd rather pay the $250 instead of getting a new wheel so i can get it re-trimmed ill have a look at asking Gary for an actual quote.

Good idea cosmo,

I thought about getting my steering wheel re-done also coz it looks a bit shite now after getting the gear shift boot, hand brake boot and handle redone at Gary's.

Then recalled that my steering wheel is illegal any way without a padded centre, so Im on the hunt for a replacement.

Anyone know who sells momo or similar quality in Melbourne? they should have some nice stylish padded wheels to choose from.

Yeah its really hard to find good padded wheels ive noticed. I bought one a fake MOMO from the guy i got my leather seat covers from, but couldnt fit it on because the boss kit i bought from gktech for $35 that was supposed to be a universal fit for my car doest fit unless i snap off the tabs for the horn! I want to change my steering wheel but not if it means i have to lose my horn thats stupid.. looks like if i wanna do it ill have to buy a $80 one from autobarn

Just noticed i got a response from Gary Black Trimming.

Hi

Its 242inc GST to recover steering wheels. If there are any repairs or if the wheel needs padding its a extra $22. All our wheels are hand stitched.

Hmmm that doesnt sound too bad imagine how mint it would look when done!

Yeah thats what he quoted me too.

He does a great job you wont be disappointed.

I was also considering after market Recaro's because my drivers seat is buggared, but after seeing the price of two new seats with rails and compliance blah blah Its all too hard.

Gary suggested I look for some GTR seats, and said as another option he could redo my front and back seats for around 2.5k incl.. which sounds tempting, and you don't have the hassle of getting a defect for non standard seats.

Anyway I will deal with the steering wheel first, maybe some one will come back to me with a momo dealer?

See attached pic of Garys work on my R33.

PS the boots were done a good 8 months ago, hand brake handle was done on Monday. (Excuse filthy car)

Cheers

Roj

Sorry pic didn't load Ill try it again.

Yeah retrim in leather and fit new rubber if needed to back and front seats along with lose material areas on the doors.

Its alot of work I'm guessing.

Would look Sh@% hot.

post-41942-1201150231.jpg

Edited by RottenRoj
Sorry pic didn't load Ill try it again.

Yeah retrim in leather and fit new rubber if needed to back and front seats along with lose material areas on the doors.

Its alot of work I'm guessing.

Would look Sh@% hot.

how much to retrim the handle on the handbrake? looks real nice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
    • No, you're wrong, and you've always been wrong about this. The Nismo has 2 sets of openings. One is a real 2-way, and the other is a 1-way. There is no 1.5-way possible with the ramps that they offer. A real 1.5-way does exist. That Cusco stuff I posted is a prime example. If the forward drive ramps are, say 55°, and the overrun ramps are, say, 30°, then you will get about half as much LSD effect on overrun than you do on drive. It is real, it realy works. OK, you're slightly right. The Nismo has 55° and 45° ramps on the 2-way, so it does offer less LSD effect on overrun. But, I think that just means that they've (probably) sensibly established that you do not want actually equal LSD effect on overrun. You just want "quite a lot, but not quite as much as the drive LSD effect".
×
×
  • Create New...