Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all just wonderin if anyone has ever had any problems with a Jim Berry?? Just helpin a mate pull his out of his GSR and it is to put it simple farqed

Hes had it in for bout 12 months or so and the car was off the road for a few months gettin an eng rebuild

My house mate and i are running Jim Berrys as well (in a rs liberty and a 33) and have had no dramas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203153-jim-berry-clutches/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Waits for Shanef...........

Got one in a GTIR, caned as required, been in there at least 2 years, since install upped turbo/boost, added Pfc in the interim, 172kw@4wd nf'n prob. My boy said clutch goes better/smoother with more power available. Has the owner talked to Jim? Rules are you gotta tell Jim what power you is aim'n for & his clutch packages are built accordingly.

My 2c

Cheers GW

Nothing wrong with Jim Berry clutchs...

Have run a couple of them now and never had an issue...

There would be less than 0.1% chance the clutch was faulty, as a faulty cutch would break within minutes/hours not 12 months...

Although it might be worth going to see him with the clutch as he may hve an idea as to why it failed, he is a bloody smart man...

Yeah, agree with you all i've never had a problem with mine (except for adjusting to it) and my house mate hasn't either

He told Jim what kinda power outputs he was lookin at and stuff

Found out just today he spoke to him and supposably there is a fault in the drive shaft being to long and no having an adaquet bush/ bearing at the other end to support it and thats what caused the problem

I have had a jim berry clutch in my 33 for a few years. My car has made 399rwkw and have never has this thing slip. When the clutch was built it was 3800lb clamp force and rated at 380kw.

From a standing start i could drop the clutch at 8000rpm in 3rd gear and turn the tyres in to clouds of smoke.

The main thing I was told was to use graphite powder on the gearbox spline and i always took my foot off the clutch when stopped at traffic lights. If I was staying with a manual i would certainly buy another suited for my new power level

I've got one in my car but it was only built for small power, didn't get the full blown clutch he normally does for most people. Only complaints I've got are the clutch makes a ticking/clicking type noise when down changing, and also my car now makes a really awful grinding type noise when driving at 2,000 rpm in third or fourth which is quite annoying because 2,000rpm is roughly what RPM you do when doing 60klm in 4th gear. Not sure if that problem was a result of a poor install or if it's because I didn't get a full blown clutch like many others.

  • 5 months later...
I have had a jim berry clutch in my 33 for a few years. My car has made 399rwkw and have never has this thing slip. When the clutch was built it was 3800lb clamp force and rated at 380kw.

From a standing start i could drop the clutch at 8000rpm in 3rd gear and turn the tyres in to clouds of smoke.

The main thing I was told was to use graphite powder on the gearbox spline and i always took my foot off the clutch when stopped at traffic lights. If I was staying with a manual i would certainly buy another suited for my new power level

What type of 'JIM BERRY' clutch is it and whats it worth?

PM me if you want

Thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
×
×
  • Create New...