Jump to content
SAU Community

Ignitiondvd Hot Spots + Dyno Comp!, Friday The 1st @ R.e Customs

Bass Junky

By Bass Junky,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted
That there is the JaR man.. and you are a f**k head :D

you having a sook because yours comes nowhere near that?

hope your not referring to my 280,000 old dirty rb30 that makes 210 rwkw on 10.5psi ......... std engine .

  • Replies 123
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

htial Grand Master

htial

Posted
Posted (edited)
hope your not referring to my 280,000 old dirty rb30 that makes 210 rwkw on 10.5psi ......... std engine .

Your car has an STD???... :)

I'd stay away from WRXs if I was you... ...Never know what you can catch from them... :D

Edited by htial
funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

his engine is gay with aids... like its driver.

hope your not referring to my 280,000 old dirty rb30 that makes 210 rwkw on 10.5psi ......... std engine .

I kick your car every time I walk past it at the workshop andrew. I think of you and I kick it.

Hey btw, did you end up buying Sam's R31? I was thinking of buying as a runaround while I get my car repainted.

htial Grand Master

htial

Posted
Posted
his engine is gay with aids... like its driver.

I kick your car every time I walk past it at the workshop andrew. I think of you and I kick it.

Hey btw, did you end up buying Sam's R31? I was thinking of buying as a runaround while I get my car repainted.

Hehehe...

My GF has a teddy bear that she does that to every time I spend too much time with my car...

Poor bear... ...I use my car for work... :D

LTHLRB Grand Master

LTHLRB

Posted
Posted
hope your not referring to my 280,000 old dirty rb30 that makes 210 rwkw on 10.5psi ......... std engine .

yes, yes i am referring to that tissue box on wheels.

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted
Get your mate to check his earlier (184kw) dyno sheet. On the below he will see that the intake temp meter was out of whack. Read something stupid like 186 degrees.

That is the reason it read so high previously. The intake temp sensor was playing up sometime ago which Ray unfortunately did not know about until after that vehicle was dynoed.

Also FYI. For strapping to cause lower readings, this is generally due to "over tighetning" on the straps. Most cars on the night were "very" lightly strapped. So should have no effect on low readings.

Most likely other dyno's are "happy" or mechanics using the intake temp sensor trick to boost figures.

At the end of the day, the best way to tell if the power is down, is by how it drives.

Cheers.

TBH I was very suprised when i went with him and he made 184awkw, it was after we put on a new top mount cooler and some more boost, I was expecting more around 140 odd. Although i think something must have been up with the 117 figure, not saying it was to do with the dyno or settings, but prob his car then, cos we dynoed it stock and it made 120awkw and now has full exhaust, bigger top mount, cai, and boost controller. I think it would have probably been his clutch maybe. Hmmm He's not going to want to hear about the sensor being faulty though, He'll be shattered...oh well guess Ray will have to break to him - be gentle... :S

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted

Dyno days are supposed to fun, of course there are going to be some people surprised at their result, but who cares?? Dynos are a tuning tool, not for tools to brag how much power they have.

Real results are shown out in the real world, on the track. You could have a million rwkw dyno graph, but if you don't have any times do back it up then leave that to the dyno queens.... Credit should be given to times and performance on the track, not dyno figures....

You don't have to be a genius to work out that 117mph doesn't relate to 200rwkw GT-T, doesn't matter how happy or sad a dyno is.... as long as you use the same dyno to tune the car every time you upgrade then your figures are going to be consistent..

That's my opinion.......

R33silverS2 Mentor

R33silverS2

Posted
Posted
Dyno days are supposed to fun, of course there are going to be some people surprised at their result, but who cares?? Dynos are a tuning tool, not for tools to brag how much power they have.

Real results are shown out in the real world, on the track. You could have a million rwkw dyno graph, but if you don't have any times do back it up then leave that to the dyno queens.... Credit should be given to times and performance on the track, not dyno figures....

You don't have to be a genius to work out that 117mph doesn't relate to 200rwkw GT-T, doesn't matter how happy or sad a dyno is.... as long as you use the same dyno to tune the car every time you upgrade then your figures are going to be consistent..

That's my opinion.......

I agree with your opinion, I just thnik my mate will be a lil dissapointed when he finds out that the intake temp sensor was faulty and that he's been under the impression of having a much higher powered car than he has... Cos he has been using the same dyno since the car was stock. Ah well, maybe he'll hurry up and decide to single turbo it then :banana:

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Awesome...i managed 4 pics!

Yeah mine ran a little less than when it was tuned, but hey, who really cares?

Like Jack said, take it to the track and lets see who can handle the horsepowerrr!!!! :blink:

...Great night!

Hope there is something similar on soon at a diff workshop, would be good to compare a few dynos from around the place.

acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted

Hmm A tiuuse box that made it to many track events before It got sent in for a paint job unlike some cars that rarely see the track :rofl:

Plus someone needs to carry a tissue box for all the little kiddies in the north and west side :blink:

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

lol the tissue box would be painted sooner if someone got off his ass n prepped the car :blink:

*cough*andrew*cough*slackass*cough*

RS500 Experienced

RS500

Posted
Posted
WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

After numerous chats we finally got a face to face meet....and i just assumed the Cossie was at home as ...ah fark! :P

hey Troy,

yeah, it was nice to finally meet you in person and talk about the RB20 legend you have.

btw, my apologies as i forgot to mention that i had the RS500 there. maybe next time :D

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Dyno days are supposed to fun, of course there are going to be some people surprised at their result, but who cares?? Dynos are a tuning tool, not for tools to brag how much power they have.

Real results are shown out in the real world, on the track. You could have a million rwkw dyno graph, but if you don't have any times do back it up then leave that to the dyno queens.... Credit should be given to times and performance on the track, not dyno figures....

You don't have to be a genius to work out that 117mph doesn't relate to 200rwkw GT-T, doesn't matter how happy or sad a dyno is.... as long as you use the same dyno to tune the car every time you upgrade then your figures are going to be consistent..

That's my opinion.......

Jack normally i would agree with what you have stated, but when i enter a dyno day, i like to compair my mods/performance to another car's mods/performance. This usually can not be done as all dynos read different, and should only be taken as a tuning tool. But when you have all the cars on the same dyno on the same day, it should be an ideal situation to compare results, otherwise why pay the entry fee?

I for one can not understand how a car with an rb25neo, Tomei cams, 550cc inj, 450hp turbo and pfc; gets almost 50kw less than a car with an rb25, std injectors, std cams, 400hp turbo and pfc. It's just beyond me :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • Kinkstaah
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...