Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

spotted a silverish stagea with plates rbb-250 on south road, around 5.30pm.

and a black navara with nismo sticker and iron chef sticker on rear window, just before daws road at 5.15pm.

something a little different, spotted a black f360 with heavily tinted windows, and white te37's on at the intersection of churchill and regency about 10ish am..

by the time i had my camera out of my bag, it was well and truly gone. :ph34r:

Black 33gtr Melbourne st and jerningham st intersection about 12.30 today, sounded dope

White 33gtst with gtr wing parked on wakefield st out the front of the Asian supermarket 5.45pm ^_^

'Fallen' in the kurralta park area just before

TE37's eh? Interesting...

jah. i was rather suprised. i stood there with a stupid look on my face admiring it for a while before my mind went 'oi, idiot, take a f**kin photo'. :wub:

Black 33gtr Melbourne st and jerningham st intersection about 12.30 today, sounded dope

White 33gtst with gtr wing parked on wakefield st out the front of the Asian supermarket 5.45pm ^_^

'Fallen' in the kurralta park area just before

spotted said car at cross road maccas

if you can afford gay teks you can afford mspec -_-

is it just me or are alot of "non" gtr skylines kicking around with gtr badges on them...

this 1 takes the cake, i was on south rd near the cross rd overpass last nite, saw a r32 skyline in front of me, when i caught

up to it i swear it was none turbo with the gay non turbo wheels but had a gtr badge on the rear with some gooby indian/pakki

guy driving... i tried to slow down to get a better look but the more i slowed down they did to then they pulled off...

these fake wanna b losers give real gtr's a bad look n rep

Spotted a blue Stagea at John St Salisbury at around 12.30 this arvo.

Also a fagggot mofo on the PRE at around 5.30 in a POS red excel deliberately blocking traffic by speeding up in the right lane until he got next to a slow car in the left lane then sat right next to it causing a mobile fkn road block. Then this mofo speeds up because he must have thought I'd overtake on the 3rd inside lane that appears on the bend when you get towards South Rd so speeds up to probably 130-140 and catches the next slow car in the left lane and proceeds to slow down again. Thank fk the fagggot got off on Hanson Rd!!!

and who says Bullbars are for Off Road use only?! :whistling:

so true, i like people who try to brake test me when in front of me :whistling:

spotted a few skylines go past me today (briens road, up near the new super school being built). notably the white 33 with white wheels that came outta the construction site about 4

Spotted a older model magna (TP ish) with ralli art stickers and randomly stuck on "performance parts", including a spoiler and roof scoop.

Saw a little Toyota echo with chrome hub caps, boot spoiler and hood scoop the other day ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...