Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is not a great deal you can do without besides the ABS, air conditioning etc its more about saving weight.

Besides the obvious, you can strip the loom and rewire with the bare essentials. you'd be suprised how much wiring is unused once you remove the HICAS, ABS etc.

Single turbo conversions are lighter than typical twins.

Stick with alloy piping if possible.

Carbon canisters can be removed as well as the piping

Heater hoses and other water lines if you have stripped the inside out

Washer bottle and hoses.

Smaller battery

You can pretty much take anything out thats not needed if your building a circuit car.

Guys,

when removing the carbon canister do you just block the outlets or do they need to be reconnected somewhere

chromolly is 1/3 the price. who has the weight figures of standard vs chromolly v cf?

concept. will await this reply!!

and would like to know about the carbon canister too. mines floating around somewhere in my engine bay hardly attached to anything

I don't get the rush for the c/f tailshaft unless you have too much money to spend.

chromolly is 1/3 the price. who has the weight figures of standard vs chromolly v cf?

Because I just want to be able to say to girls:

"Yes that's right ladies......... I have a carbon shaft. Form an orderly line to the left, and no pushing."

either way its still weight i want to get rid of as thats my main goal for now.

and on the plus side, single piece shaft rather than the current.

and barron, a light weight clutch/flywheel would be somewhere 5x (+++) the cost of the shaft correct?

No Angus i just put a 4.2 kg alloy flywheel on for 500$

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/acpt-ca...r32-p-9406.html

Is there anywhere in australia that makes them? Or just US shops? I'd like one, but I doubt they're off the shelf items for my car.

hey, since my car has a r34 gearbox in a r32 i need an odd sized one also.

so get your length of your shaft right and i can forward on to him if your interested. as i've told him i need an odd sized one too.

$1400 !

Thats very good.

People spend more than that on making thier GTR look faggy.

A carbon tailshaft is well worth the money. Manufacturers are using them now on fairly cheap sports cars for the range of benifits they offer.

I've got this on my list of mods for my R32 GTR bunky and I'm only building a 300rwkw car.

any chance one of you guys know how much a bare and empty r32 gtr fuel tank weighs ?

Titanium exhaust = 23 ks

but surely you can get lighter exhausts? i've got a 3" zorst that weighs 12kgs ( not inlcuding cat, front pipe, dump pipe)

Edited by Dan_J
he was saying 23kgs is the amount of weight saved. most titanium systems would be under 6kg.

oh ok thanks for clearing that up

at a guess i would say a bare gtr fuel tank is 12 to 14 kg.

you wouldnt have a spare one that u cud just wack on sum scales to double check? :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...