Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was driving along beach rd to work, and you could see the road had the rainbow/oil slick look to it (first rain after a big dry). It was SOOO SLIPPERY!!

On a gradual bend, that you could probably take at 100+ in the dry, at 60, a slight bit of extra throttle and the car was stepping out (not even on boost). Even straight line, normal acceleration from the lights was struggling sometimes.

I've got plenty of tread left and $$ tyres, plus other suspension mods so i know it wasn't the car... it was just damn slippery

so PLEASE take it easy out there. I saw one accident on the way in, but there are surely going to be more floating around on the news.

-chinny-

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206942-its-fcking-slippery-out-there/
Share on other sites

yeah my ass end was all over the place on the way home. heard there were a few crashes around.

amazing how it can go from hot dry 35 degrees then the next day 22 rainny cold and wind. Only in Melb :P

Edited by jake33

I was almost sideways coming out of my driveway this morning. I turn onto a hill and in the rain its almost impossible to accelerate at a regular speed without loosing traction which makes it a pain to pull out into traffic. Think I scared a lancer just a bit this morning while I was driving to the train station in suddenly in 2nd the rear started sliding out in front of her.

haha.. yea i almost got into a bit of trouble. coming out of Forster Road on to FTG road, I had a Burger in one hand and dart in the other, 3rd gear and my back and was steppin out, and I hardly had my foot on the throttle too.

If you cant keep traction on a wet day you shouldnt be driving.

Amen. Bout time someone said it.

I think people feel cooler if they can't keep traction....My daily has 250rwkw and I can keep it in line with little to no effort.

Learn to drive :P

it's got nothing to do with being a hero, or not knowing how to drive.

all my point was that it was exceedingly more slippery than any "normal" wet road, and you could see the oil sheen on the road, and the extent to which it was visible, was NOT normal.

all i was trying to do was give people a heads up in that the roads (well, beach rd at least) are A LOT more slippery than they are normal... and if that means someone misses an accident because they gave more room between them and the car infornt, well, the thread has done it's job

there were lots of crashes - and i was listening to AM radio on the way back from the train station. The Lindi Burns was saying something like "as soon as it starts raining, people forget how to drive"

How true it is. there was one ass wipe this morning who was cutting in and out, wouldnt let people change lanes etc......what an ass bandit

i know to be very careful in the wet in my car and i was taking it very easy around every bend and roundabout. i was doing under the speed limit and had a slight curve in front of me so i only had to turn the wheel a little bit. then the back end kicked out a little bit i pretty much shat my pants cause i wasnt ready for that to happen, i looked behind me and it happened to a couple other cars so there must of been some oil there it was pretty scary considering im not really used to rwd cars, cause i used to drive a subaru and you never cared when it rained.

it was filthy outside today, i was slidin everywhere on shitty nankangs, was enough for me to get a new set of yokohama r1s best tyre ever for me lol.

i expect this would only happen if you floor it in the wet ?

i expect this would only happen if you floor it in the wet ?

yeh i would also expect this cause i can keep my car straight with 200 + rwkw and got the worst tyres imaginable on the back

and they are stretched to

my VL wagons fully sick in this weather.. makes me feel like its got 500HP... sick

:rofl:

bahahahahaha

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...