Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

so if i look from under the bonnet down between them i should see something?

its a very tight gap

but you can make it out if you look at the right angle

its on a plate, in between the turbos two housings. aka the core

Try a search. The tooth section of the cam gear wears very quickly because it is soft aluminium.

Also whilst you are arsing about with the gears change the belt & think about changing the water pump.

I think you have your wires slightly crossed, the older style of HKS cam gears were indeed prone to tooth wear, but the newer design (current model) are made from the same Duralumin alloy that the Tomei Cam Gears are made from.

Ok now i know ull say search but alot of things goes over my head.

Im about to spend a bit of cash on my GTR and im just after a little advice on wheather im doing the right thing or not and getting the best bang for my buck.

I have a GTR R33

Mods

Trust intercooler

3 1/2 Kakimoto 06&R cat back system

Just Jap front pipe

N1 Steel Turbos (believed)

Blitz PODS

Oil Catch Can

Now im thinking (Ive read and have thought these sounded the best for price) of getting these

Power FC and Controller $ 796

Greddy PRofec B Spec II $ 336

HKS Cam Gears $ 324

Total $1456

Plus tune of course.

Would that all go well together??? Any thing you would change etc....

Advice would be great!

-Install a Supercharger for low RPM then the turbos kick in at the mid high RPM

OR

-Install a NOS Kit

:banana::):(

Just get the boost controller and Power FC controller and/or upgrade the flywheel.

I think you have your wires slightly crossed, the older style of HKS cam gears were indeed prone to tooth wear, but the newer design (current model) are made from the same Duralumin alloy that the Tomei Cam Gears are made from.

Yeah sorry old info I guess. I saw some over the weekend advertised as duralium.

So I guess they have fixed it.

Million dollar quesrion: How do you pick the difference between the two?

Bought some Tomei cam gears

You need to focus on fuel before you throw money away on things like cam gears. If you really do have N1 turbos and you buy a PowerFC you're going to have your injectors maxed out before you will make much power.

Fuel is the pre-requisite to making power and should be your objective before things like cam gears. Injectors and a fuel pump.

I use SARD injectors and Nismo fuel pumps and recommend them.

Correct about the stock inj...they will be fine for the power you are looking at making. Might be worth getting them flow tested though.

Go the PFC...cam gears....boost control....K&N filter and you should see 250kw at the wheels at around 14-15psi. Just make sure you do indeed have steel wheeled turbos :D

Thanks mate...

Does anyone know are cam gears a defect in SA?

Just got the tomei ones and they look to nice to be hidden, so was thinking a clear cam cover but if there a defect ill keep them hidden... lol

Ok now i know ull say search but alot of things goes over my head.

Im about to spend a bit of cash on my GTR and im just after a little advice on wheather im doing the right thing or not and getting the best bang for my buck.

I have a GTR R33

Mods

Trust intercooler

3 1/2 Kakimoto 06&R cat back system

Just Jap front pipe

N1 Steel Turbos (believed)

Blitz PODS

Oil Catch Can

Now im thinking (Ive read and have thought these sounded the best for price) of getting these

Power FC and Controller $ 796

Greddy PRofec B Spec II $ 336

HKS Cam Gears $ 324

Total $1456

Plus tune of course.

Would that all go well together??? Any thing you would change etc....

Advice would be great!

Where do ou get the profec b for 336?

Also you should upgrade your fuel reg. To an adjustable nismo fuel reg one that replaces the oem one so u dont have to max out your injector cylce and u can bump the fuel rail pressure up so it is all safe. There only $200 buks too from memory mate. :wave:

also from memory it possible to make 300kw or close to on n1's with power fc, full exhaust dumps to rear, boost controller, fuel reg, maybe new fuel pump just be safe, small cams + cam gears and bigger front mount BUT most of all it depends on tune and conditon of engine and n1's mate :wave:

Also you should upgrade your fuel reg. To an adjustable nismo fuel reg one that replaces the oem one so u dont have to max out your injector cylce and u can bump the fuel rail pressure up so it is all safe. There only $200 buks too from memory mate.

Thanks ill have a look around for one..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
×
×
  • Create New...