Jump to content
SAU Community

[group Buy] Acpt Carbon Fibre Tailshafts Any Model! $1400us


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 717
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ah the saga continues. Apparently shipping on the 17...of December. Inshallah

Maybe...I was told there would be no guarantee of delivery on or by the 17th even though that's the date they gave, so take their delivery dates with a grain of salt.

:D

salt1.jpg

Do you think thats enough...lol sigh

Ha! well no one can say you haven't been keeping good humour and patience about it all that's for sure..

yes!...and that word would be NO. From memory Andrew said they intended to ship on that date, so I'm not expecting anything for another few days *fingers crossed*

The saga continues. Still, TAS in 3 weeks and that will cheer me up no end...woowhoo cars then snow!!!

Not much snow around these parts mr Keets...been unusally warm and raining...dont believe the snow reports from Niseko as they are over hyped bullcrap..There is some decent snow forecast for next week but!

Much better off piste terrain at Hakuba, just watch the ski patrol..absolute nazis!

All good otherwise?? so much for them straight fit..

i will give him some feedback i think.. let me know how you all go and the problems you have

:P

Cheers

THIS SAGA IS NOT F#$KING OVER!!!!

I AM ABSOLUTELY F#@KING ROPEABLE!

1 DAY IN THE CAR, 3RD GEAR WITH 0.8 BAR OF BOOST THIS HAPPENS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ANGUS - I WANT THE MONEY BACK ASAP! TELL PAUL AND JAMES... I AM NOT F#$KING AROUND ANYMORE. CUSTOMER IS PISSED AS WE TEST DROVE IT.

idxir5.jpg

jjxrlx.jpg

eg1zfa.jpg

2qi936o.jpg

NO IT WONT!

I have been corrected with how it happened.

Street tyres! Change from 1st in 4000rpm to 2nd which would be 3000rpm with not even 3 pound of boost very light driving to check diff change.

BANG! BANG! RATTLE RATTLE!

Carbon all over the road and a major piece being on the side of the road, under the car the bolting mounts for the standard diff have been bent it has tried to come through the floor pretty much.... Customer not happy jan! Seems as though the carbon weave has gone against the glass which means it was going to sheer itself no matter what... 5 months wait for this is a complete and utter joke!

Edited by OS30GK
Seems as though the carbon weave has gone against the glass which means it was going to sheer itself no matter what...

Can you elaborate?

any way to tell if this is a flaw by looking at a non-broken one?

fark! Looking at the original set of pics it looked like the torque unwound it but these shots make it look like it just snapped. I wonder what the QA/AC for these things is?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...