Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My mate's building up his RB26 N1 engine for streetable response and obviously as much power as possible. He already has GT2860R -5 turbos and Tomei 260 degree in and ex poncams. He's about to put a 2.7L JUN kit in it and the usual metal head gasket etc. etc. and just wondering what is required for the head to handle 10000rpm if required further down the track.

Obviously valve springs. What else?

Cheers

My mate's building up his RB26 N1 engine for streetable response and obviously as much power as possible. He already has GT2860R -5 turbos and Tomei 260 degree in and ex poncams. He's about to put a 2.7L JUN kit in it and the usual metal head gasket etc. etc. and just wondering what is required for the head to handle 10000rpm if required further down the track.

Obviously valve springs. What else?

Cheers

He wont EVER need 10,000rpm with those tiny turbos.

That's why i said "if required further down the track"

It's a brand new N1 long engine. Does it still need valve guides even though the ones in it are new?

How much further?

There is little point spending mega mega $$$ on a head if its never going to be used.

Even 400rwkw CIRCUIT cars don't even use more than 8500rpm.

If its built and tuned correctly, correct turbos for the power, then you shouldn't need 10k rpm for something thats mean to be 'streetable'

Basically the whole head needs to be re-kitted for 10k rpm. Stronger everything, upgraded everything.

Your mate really needs to decide this now rather than 'if required' as its mega $$$ and effort.

350-370awkw is a very good limit really for a streetable car (and can be done with the current turbos)

Can use the stock gear in the head which is reliable and so on.

And yeah - im trying to talk ya out of it cause i think its a waste of the cashola ;)

OK I'll re-word it. How many reliable RPM will a new RB26 N1 head with tomei 260 degree poncams and tomei type A valve springs handle? The stock rev limit is about 8000 I think so it's gotta be more than that. 9000?

Tomei type A valve springs are rated to 8500rpm hence this is your safe upper limit.

OK I'll re-word it. How many reliable RPM will a new RB26 N1 head with tomei 260 degree poncams and tomei type A valve springs handle? The stock rev limit is about 8000 I think so it's gotta be more than that. 9000?

if he wants it to live I'd advise sticking with 8,000rpm. stock limit is 7500 and to be honest with smallish low mounts and small cams there is no need to rev past that. for street use, sure blip it to 8,000 every now and then if you want some fun, but on the circuit, nothing will hurt your engine more than pulling big revs. look at all the reliable circuit GTRs, none of them run revs more than 8000 or 8500 tops. and many stick to around 7500. drag racing of course is another story.

brad, i was speaking directly to the Tomei engineer and the do not recommend reving past 8500 even with the full counter forged crank and rods! (maybe for drag only)

but for you top end (head) the n1 valves springs are uprated compared to standard, but you may need to uprate them again to ensure they close quick enough for those kind of revs and different retainers etc etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...