Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well...when you are rich, you get the most expensive one out of the list. You pay the most expensive brand of turbo and mods. "which is better in price and performance" should not be in your vocabulary. "I'll take which ever gives me the best performance" would be the only sentence you need when you are rich.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3712888
Share on other sites

hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

even better why wait till your rich, why not buy one of these R/C GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur :whistling:

4533.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3713085
Share on other sites

hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

Hey dude, these guys are just havin fun. You obviously have access to the internet. Do the research yourself. The link below will start you on your journey, maybe motivate you when you become rich. Also, when you buy a Skyline you will stop being rich very soon. It is an expensive business running one. It is however very rewarding. Good luck.

http://www.j-spec.com.au/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3714664
Share on other sites

hi im amjad and i want to buy a skyline when im rich which one is better in Price and Performance and how much they approxmatly cost in AUS.

GT-R r34 V-spec I

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II

or

GT-R r34 V-spec II Nur

GT-R R34 V-Spec I

The V-spec model also had firmer suspension, lower ground clearance, a plastic front air diffuser (covering the underside of the engine) and a rear carbon fiber air diffuser, designed to keep air flowing smoothly under the car.

GT-R R34 V-Spec II

The V-Spec II has increased stiffness in the suspension (even stiffer than the original V-spec). It also comes equipped with a carbon fiber hood, which is lighter than the aluminum that all other GT-R hoods are made from. Also different on the V-Spec II is the darker color of the center console in the interior. The seats were also made with black cloth, rather than the gray cloth used on other R34 GT-R models. From this point, the standard trim level GT-R also received the new black seats.

GT-R R34 V-Spec II Nur

The Nür was named after the famous German Nürburgring racetrack, where the Skyline was developed. The Nür model featured an improved RB26DETT based on the N1 racing engine, used by Nismo in Motorsports. The V-spec II Nür is based on the regular V-spec II model, and the M-spec Nür was based on the regular M-spec model. Other than the addition of the Nür engine, the Nür models also included a different color of stitching on the interior trim, as well as a speedometer reading up to 300 km/h (186 mph).

- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skyline_gtr

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209971-whats-better/#findComment-3715762
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...