Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im about to replace my water pump (have to do the timing belt so may as well do the water pump to be safe) is there much benefit in using an N1 pump over using a standard?

I didnt see any. Then again i never had any overheating issues.

i dont have any real issues but i have been told that to replace the water pump its the same amount of work as it is to do the timing belt so i figure i may as well do it while im in there.

i dont have any real issues but i have been told that to replace the water pump its the same amount of work as it is to do the timing belt so i figure i may as well do it while im in there.

Yeh i would replace it too.

The Poncams do not need any adjustment,thats why i did not get adjustable cam gears.

Dont have much experience with RB25 tuning but i know the Tomei Poncams in my old 26 liked a little adjustment. Especially on the exhaust side :P

Edited by DiRTgarage
Dont have much experience with RB25 tuning but i know the Tomei Poncams in my old 26 liked a little adjustment. Especially on the exhaust side :)

I will ask my tuner to spend some time on making some adjustments to it.

I think the affect will be minimal, but hey more power is more power :)

I dont suppose anyone has a BRIDE seat rail they want to get rid of??? :P

I have HKS cams in my RB25 and the exhaust liked a little touch up. I also retained VCT, It was worth retaining I think for midrange but you do get a tiny flat spot as the solenoid opens that we could not really get rid off.

How long till it is ready to rumble?

Pick the motor up this week, the week after ill be putting all the gear on the motor. The week after that ill be getting it towed to my exhaust shop for all of the piping. The week after that ill be getting it towed to the tuners for the start up and the run in tune.

So will be a few weeks yet till we turn the wick up.

My heat wrap arrived this morning. Its called ThermoTech, has anyone heard of this brand? It says it can withstand constant temps of 2000F.

I went with the black as the white gets dirty to easy. 1inch wide by 15m long. Should do my manifold and dump pipe hopefully.

I hear stainless expands more than mild steel when heated. Would it be a good idea not to wrap it as tight as you would normally?

I was planning on trailing the wrap through water as i wrap the manifold so the wrap keeps its shape a bit better.

The black wears/burns/falls off. It just ends up looking dirty anyway. Looks great initially though.

It'll also harden up with heat so just wrap it tight so random bits aren't flaking off with vibration or when you brush against it when doing maintenence.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...