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Why not get the stuff ceramic coated? It is so so so much better than that wrap stuff...

i was under impression that when you wrap it, all it does is keep the heat in, so it will eventually crack the steel or what ever it is you wrap. Also, if you try unwrapping it, it would have basically stuck it self to the metal, so it peels away the steel making it really fragile and weak. I just had my stuff coated, 600 for manifold, dump and exhaust housing. It is so much better.

You have gone to all the effort of doing everything else right, i think you should ceramic coat it while engine is still out :P Keeps so much more heat out of the engine bay also!

Hey mate you should look into getting a stainless steel turbo drain made up as the hose you are using will handle the temp but it will deform and knick when it heats up causing the hose to block the oil flow slightly.

I can see that oil drain being an issue from the first dyno session. Save yourself some time now and have a hard line made. Like Fineline, all my lines are going to be steel. I'll have some pics in the next week

bit late to mention it now, but since you have a forward facing plenum i would have used rb26 rocker covers which look nicer and also have the pcv hosing up the back.

That stock black hose will be replaced with lines from the Greddy oil catch can. So wont look as bad. Plus it is a 25 not a 26.I did consider the 26 covers though but decided against it.

I got that oil line from Earls. Was told it would be up to the job easy. Plus im heat wrapping the manifold so the heat will not be as intense.

Please yourself dude. they told us all the same things and we did all the same things and more to prevent issues with the braided lines but it still shit itself.

I hope yours doesnt but from personal experience you are running a risk. It cost me a turbo. :D

i would aslo guess at saying the water feed you have installed will foul on the strut tower. innner guard, whatever you want to call it.

ring ETM, he can send you a stainless oil return off the shelf to suit your aplication.

heres what i did with anna's engine...

Dave, Anna; does the AC still work in that car? Im suprised how much you've been able to bend the firewall AC fittings.

Just in the process of replacing the braid down through the manifold with hard lines.

Do you think the expansion and growth of the manifold and turbo (when hot) requires any special consideration when running hard steel lines? Ive been wondering if loops should be made to assist the tube fittings in taking load.

i would aslo guess at saying the water feed you have installed will foul on the strut tower. innner guard, whatever you want to call it.

ring ETM, he can send you a stainless oil return off the shelf to suit your aplication.

+1

That water feed looks way to far out :blink: Might still work... be interesting to see the final result once its in. My guess is it will be tight if it does fit...

Is that an xforce manifold?? I have heard that they crack fairly easily from people that have run them.... might pay to HPC it now while its still out of the car .... Wrapping wont help unfortunately... I have seen one die after 2 months. He HPC'd (black same as mine) the next one (ebay jobby) and it lasted over 2 years on a 400+rwkw GTR

otherwise... looking good... how long till its going in??

Dave, Anna; does the AC still work in that car? Im suprised how much you've been able to bend the firewall AC fittings.

Yup sure does.... just a little gentle persuasion :(.... I refused to lose the air con seeing as my car is black. I bent them the first time round (majority of it) as my old tuner didnt want to be held responsible if it stopped working !! lol!!

Dave bent them a little more once the new engine was in....

Only bent to keep them away from the manifold a bit more... its all a bit of a tight fit otherwise...

P.s it didn't work at first as we forgot to plug the compressor clutch back in!! whoops!! :blink:

just wondering if anyone can help me with a problem with my rs4 s stagea?

it's surging while driving.

i already done coil packs . changed to splitfire.

using boash double platniums with gap 1.0mm. splitfire coils should jump that gap easy. no mod's only panel filter

i'm thinking air flow meter?

it seems to drive ok when cold but then if it hit a bump it starts to surg? and once it gets warm

but saying all that it comes and go's.

i also read that the soldering joints can break inside air flow meter. which would explan why it comes and go's

thanks ant

Only bent to keep them away from the manifold a bit more... its all a bit of a tight fit otherwise...

Tight fit, tell me about it! I'm just jealous i didn't have the balls to bend them like that :blink: Iv had to angle my dump pipe towards the motor to clear them, giving me about 10mm.

Cheers!

Tight fit, tell me about it! I'm just jealous i didn't have the balls to bend them like that :blink: Iv had to angle my dump pipe towards the motor to clear them, giving me about 10mm.

Cheers!

Yeah just bend em, DONT try and bend em back though!! They will snap... bit like copper hot water pipes etc... it hardens as soon as you move it..

Lol re the balls... I didn't really think of the ramifications if it farked up... just all guns blazing and yeah.. happy ending! thank god!!

just wondering if anyone can help me with a problem with my rs4 s stagea?

it's surging while driving.

i already done coil packs . changed to splitfire.

using boash double platniums with gap 1.0mm. splitfire coils should jump that gap easy. no mod's only panel filter

i'm thinking air flow meter?

it seems to drive ok when cold but then if it hit a bump it starts to surg? and once it gets warm

but saying all that it comes and go's.

i also read that the soldering joints can break inside air flow meter. which would explan why it comes and go's

thanks ant

LMAO thats funny as..

Back on topic it sounds like its going well, I can't wait to see power figures.

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