Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

i fitted a cheap shord shift kit to my gtr, one suited for a gtst it fitted ok but the bottom of the shifter ball was to small so i just got the original and stuck it to the one on there with some really good quality glue that melts the plastic together as i wasnt sure how it would go in the gear oil if it falls off it falls off lol then i will work it out from there but these kits are like $50 on ebay

  • 2 months later...

Help i feel so noob, i cant get the first circlip out!!! I spent an hr and a half trying everything i could think of and no luck...

Perhaps try a better set of pliers? Or is there a trick to it i havent understood???

Please help im really keen to start short shifting!

mate realy easy get two little flathead screw drivers, first leaver a gap at the start then put the seconed on in where u have made a gap and just leaver it should just pop out can be done with one screwdriver i did it just the other day in about 20 sec the clip will wanna spin and really you dont have to be carefull you wont break anything in there just give it a good leaver and yank

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...

I brought a short shifter from nottieboy for my 34. The shifter seems alright, but with some problems.

Problem 1: the end cap that came with it is larger than the original end cap and consequently does not fit in the selcter rod. I filed the new cap a bit and now it fits a little better.

Problem 2: the original end cap, when fitter to the new shifter does not much rotational play, due to the end of the short shifter not being a perfect sphere.

Problem 3: the supplied bush to raise the ball housing seems to be too big for the extended throw and the shifter slips out of the selecter rod. The throw between the end cap and the ball is longer by 10mm on the short shifter than the original however a 14mm bush was supplied. I am having a new bush made for $20 which will be ready for collection tomorrow.

I will let all know how it works out when fitted correctly.

  • 1 year later...
i heard fitting a short shifter can potentially wreck the gearbox, or wear it out quicker over time. is this true?

yeah, you'll be changing gears faster so will it wear your syncros a bit faster... nothing too major :)

won't wreck your gearbox as such though...

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Images fixed folks.

Apparently not.... Can anything be done about the installation of a short shifter in an r33 as all the images no longer work.. I tried to follow this with out, and did pretty well, i even pre-emptively sorted the issue with the little boot on the end being too small in many of the kits.

However i have another issue, that i need to work out the answer to. I believe the metal tubing, used as on extension in the base, is either too long (most likely), or the bolts to hold the cover with the bananna shaped arms are too short... The easiest fix is to get longer bolts, but i dont think this will fix the issue in that the was the spring gasket works would not function any more cos it would just be squished flat all the time.. so that makes me think it is the metal tube that is too long. However if i was to make it shorter, and that didnt work, i've fooked up the whole kit and am in more troubles...

I spent a couple of hours trying to find solutions to this, but cant seem to think of a good safe one.

Seeing how the pictures show things, and their relative heights may help me be sure where the problem lies...

In reality, i wish i could just have a stock leave that is shorter, as in made not as long like in a truck, and thus by being shorter, the throw is changed, but cos of the design, you cant just cut these and put a new thread on, they need to have been made correctly.

Please get back to me with thoughts, advise and any pictures if possible!

Edited by J'son

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...