Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bit more of an update....forgot to add this....you will need to machine off about 2mm of the hub.....don't worry it does not affect anything.....but if you don't do it it will rub against the rotor.

I didn't need to do this. R32 GTR 32mm discs. about 1.5mm clearance. drives fine. I will add after removing the olive in the caliper to grab a very fine tooth file to smooth the mating surface of the banjo bolt cooper washer to ensure a good seal.

I didn't need to do this. R32 GTR 32mm discs. about 1.5mm clearance. drives fine. I will add after removing the olive in the caliper to grab a very fine tooth file to smooth the mating surface of the banjo bolt cooper washer to ensure a good seal.

hmmm....your the second person to say this to me.....Scott said the same thing.......he even has my old R32 rotors. In saying that I had to remove this area on mine and Andy's AR-X.....maybe there is a difference in the offset between the RX and AR-X.

hmmm....your the second person to say this to me.....Scott said the same thing.......he even has my old R32 rotors. In saying that I had to remove this area on mine and Andy's AR-X.....maybe there is a difference in the offset between the RX and AR-X.

If the Hub Bearings are different it could change the offset...maybe

I will also say, if your brake discs are currently warped to sort them out asap. I think I left mine to long and it has worn my power steering rack to the stage I now get shudder when turning the wheel quickly.

If the Hub Bearings are different it could change the offset...maybe

I will also say, if your brake discs are currently warped to sort them out asap. I think I left mine to long and it has worn my power steering rack to the stage I now get shudder when turning the wheel quickly.

The hub bearings are the same part number....maybe the upright is slightly different! Never had the brakes warped on the front of this car but I do get a shudder on left hand sweepers under power.....reckon its the CV's on the LH shaft or steering rack? Need to get it sorted....or maybe just don't turn left....lol.

The hub bearings are the same part number....maybe the upright is slightly different! Never had the brakes warped on the front of this car but I do get a shudder on left hand sweepers under power.....reckon its the CV's on the LH shaft or steering rack? Need to get it sorted....or maybe just don't turn left....lol.

Roger that, who knows then.

I checked my rack end play...definately what my issue is. Only happens when I turn right under power or sitting dead still and turning the wheel quickly.

The hub bearings are the same part number....maybe the upright is slightly different! Never had the brakes warped on the front of this car but I do get a shudder on left hand sweepers under power.....reckon its the CV's on the LH shaft or steering rack? Need to get it sorted....or maybe just don't turn left....lol.

I had the same 2mm disk clearance, ARX must have different front end which would make sense if the strut has 40mm extra travel.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
does anybody have the DBA code for standard rear M35 brakes?? the maxima and xtrail dont show rears on the dba website..

thanks

from the DBA website... Perhaps try looking for 350z Touring brakes :)

4000 Series Performance Brake Rotors

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA4574 $275.52 ea 4000 Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA4954 $250.47 ea 4000 Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA4574SL $325.61 ea 4000 Series Slotted Left-hand Vented 292 x 16

Rear DBA4574SR $325.61 ea 4000 Series Slotted Right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA4954SL $300.56 ea 4000 Series Slotted Left-hand Vented 296 x 24

Front DBA4954SR $300.56 ea 4000 Series Slotted Right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA4574XS $375.71 ea 4000 Series Xs Left/right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA4954XS $350.66 ea 4000 Series Xs Left/right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Street Series Increased Braking Performance

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA574 $122.45 ea Street Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA954 $163.69 ea Street Series Standard Left/right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA574SL $197.87 ea Street Series Slotted Left-hand Vented 292 x 16

Rear DBA574SR $197.87 ea Street Series Slotted Right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA954SL $222.92 ea Street Series Slotted Left-hand Vented 296 x 24

Front DBA954SR $222.92 ea Street Series Slotted Right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Position DBA # IRP$ (AU$) [?] Description Dia. x Thick.(mm)

Rear DBA574X $222.92 ea Street Series Gold Left/right-hand Vented 292 x 16

Front DBA954X $275.52 ea Street Series Gold Left/right-hand Vented 296 x 24

Edited by iamhe77
  • 5 months later...

I'm looking at getting DBA rotors for the wagon.

The existing slotted discs it came with are getting too thin.

They don't like the heat generated slowing the M35 down hills like Stanwell Tops and Kangaroo Valley and keep warping.

Trying to decide between the DBA954X / DBA574X which are their 'Street' Gold cross drilled and the more expensive 4000 series rotors, either slotted or cross drilled.

Is there anything wrong with the cheaper 'Street' brakes, I've come across a few posts where people claim they've heard of some bloke cracking cross drilled brakes, but it seems a bit like an old wives tail.

I don't want to spend money pointlessly, but brakes are the place to go a bit nuts.

Any other good rotor replacements for stock calipers? I've seen the RDA ones on ebay, but I can't find any good info on their full range.

Thanks

They bolt on perfectly, a couple of us have done the conversion.

Are you selling yours? PM me a price if you are.

Need to source me a set of these.

Edited by Paramour

I'm looking at getting DBA rotors for the wagon.

The existing slotted discs it came with are getting too thin.

They don't like the heat generated slowing the M35 down hills like Stanwell Tops and Kangaroo Valley and keep warping.

Trying to decide between the DBA954X / DBA574X which are their 'Street' Gold cross drilled and the more expensive 4000 series rotors, either slotted or cross drilled.

Is there anything wrong with the cheaper 'Street' brakes, I've come across a few posts where people claim they've heard of some bloke cracking cross drilled brakes, but it seems a bit like an old wives tail.

Do you want to find out the hard way? Get slotted but not drilled.

Do you want to find out the hard way? Get slotted but not drilled.

I'm leaning towards the slotted after doing more reading.

This link (provided by GSLRallySport) pretty much describes my problem

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

Save a bit of cash and spend it on pads...

I had the same 2mm disk clearance, ARX must have different front end which would make sense if the strut has 40mm extra travel.

hey buddy....what you say?????

P.S. I know I'm a smart arse!

  • 1 month later...

Having done a fair bit of reading on brakes (zomg theres a search button!) I was just wondering whether slotted rotors and good pads with the standard calipers is a worthwhile upgrade or if the only way forward is a caliper upgrade?

Seems like there are heaps of options, k sport, 350z brembos, akebonos, but I'm curious if theyre worth the premium for a road car...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...