Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you can run the 1.1mm gap without it missing then do it. The bigger gap the better. People only reduce the gap when they are running large boost or have old, weak coils that can't provide a strong enough spark

That's true, only reduce gap if you have to.

NGK BKR6EYA. = 0.8mm

I was running these on 10psi with stock ECU. No Problems.

Installed an SAFC 2 and my Tuner gapped them down to 0.7mm due to old Stock Coils. No Problems.

NGK BKR6EYA-11 = 1.1mm

I will go back up to 1.1mm soon as I just bought some Brand New Stock Coils.

This will be interesting...

That's what I thought.. I will try the 1.1mm gap an see how I go. It only has 140k on the engine so coils might be fine.

Is 1.1mm and 0.8mm the only 2 gaps I can run or should I try lower the gap in 0.1mm increments like as in if 1.1mm doesn't work maybe try 1mm then 0.9 then 0.8 or is that pointless? I'm new to the whole boost scene so excuse my lack of knowledge haha appreciate everyone's help :)

If they are the original coils at 140kms then they will probably be getting a bit weak.

And yes, you can just drop the gap by 0.1mm increments until it doesn't miss

If you want cheap BCPR6ES, get them off eBay

Just buy more than 12 at a time and it works out pretty sweet, $2.90 each delivered

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NGK-spark-plug-BCPR6-ES-plugs-BCPR6ES-tradeprice-2330-/330828510503?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d06ea7527

I just ordered 24 lol, works out to be $2.81 each.. :)

Well the 1.1mm gap works fine. Revs sooo much smoother now. Coils must be good :D Old plugs had a little miss before it revved. Doesnt miss at all during idle or rev. Have no driven it yet to test them under load but all seems fine. Thanks everyone for your help

  • 7 years later...

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

3 minutes ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

Hmmm. You just set the gap to whatever you want with a very cheap tool.

10 hours ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️ Stock rb25

 

I use those plugs with 1.1 gap and have zero issues. Drop gap if your coils are shit, otherwise leave at 1.1

So why so hard finding info ? Gapping copper/nickel and platinum plugs is trivial. Iridiums are the only ones you've really got to be careful with. In NGK if it has no - prefix at the end it is like this-

# heat range.

Copper/nickel plugs, the bcpr#es is pregapped to 0.9mm / 36 thou, there is no 0.8mm gap in bcpr#es coppers.

Platinum plugs BCPR#EP and Iridium plugs BCPR#EIX, are pregapped to 0.8mm / 32 thou.

A -11 at the end indicates an 1.1mm / 44 thou gap as an option, available in all of these plugs.

15 hours ago, Kiza said:

I've checked alot of places and I can't seem to find BCPR6ES spark plugs with 0.8mm gap I can only find 1.1mm and super cheap say (after rego checko) they are not a right fit for the rb25. After alot of searching and doing my head in I found BCPR6ES with a 0.9mm gap from justjap so that's what I went with... ?‍♂️Stock rb25

 

Also 5 is stock NGK heat range for RB25, 6 for RB26.

Probably why Repco / Supercrap say it's the wrong plug too.

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...