Jump to content
SAU Community

I Fiddled With My Car And It Went Snap Crackle And Pop

urtwhistle

By urtwhistle,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

Hello, im hoping some 1 out there might be able to point me in the right direction.

i was fiddling with my car tonight checking to see if the cable i bought to boot mount my battery was heavy enough. so i hooked up about a 4m peice of 4g cable to the positive on the battery ran it to were they normaly hook up on the cables (yeah i know now it aint heavy enough now) the car chugged away then started. i turned the car off then went to start it again. it went snap crackle and pop. from that sec onwards it had no power to any thing in the car. i checked the fuses under the dash and under the bonnet aswell as the fusible links. none were blowen. i then un hooked the cable hooked it up like normal but still no power to the ignition.

the car is a R34 GTT

mods stock motor on LPG with a powerFC

please tell me i havent fried the pfc

were does the power go from once it enters the main fuse box?

any help will be greatly appreciated and i may even contemplate giving you my greddy copy manifold if i dont throw it through the windscreen of my car first that is.

regards

chris

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Starter motor draw on a 4G piece of cable? - ouch. I use 0G for reference.

Have you got a PFC hand controller? have you got the stock ECU to chuck in for a test?

Not sure bout your R34, but a 32 runs power out the back corners of the engine bay, into the wheel wells then through the upper kick panel area. Did you smell ozone inside the car when it crackled?

R34 on LPG sounds pretty trick never the less :P

EDIT: Hrrrm, thinking more, not sure the 4G would killed it nessacerally. Is there a dodgey connection that arced maybe?

Edited by GeeTR
urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi Geetr, yeah its injected gas, runs great. yeah i have the hand controller but nothing is getting power. yeah i got 10m enought to do 2 runs i just wanted to see IF it would work with 1. Nah i bought the car with the powerFC already in it so i don't have a spare. Ozone ummmmmmmm not that i can think of why would i??? i was more wondering once the power goes into the fuse box were does it go to next? like computer - ignition then starter motor or vice versa or an ignition module. yeah i think i bit off more then i could chew LOL

but seriously after tonight i am sooo over trying to make this greddy plenum fit.

regards

chris

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ozone (or thats what i call it) is that burnt smell when you 'let teh smoke out' of some hardware.

Iv fried audio gear as a scrote and the whole cabin reeks of it.

Not 100% sure, but would say the ECU has a constant 12v feed, and then switches a relay in the engine bay, when you hit ACC. Learn the ECU pin outs.

Time to start hunting through the R34 workshop manual schematics... nothing like forced education for motivation.

Good luck

Edited by GeeTR
br3ndan Mentor

br3ndan

Posted
Posted

wow, i nvr heard of a Skyline on LPG!!!

Thats pretty cool... ! Hows the mileage on it?

In regards to ur problem.. i have no idea.. but couldnt resist asking u about the LPG.

nizmonut Community Regular

nizmonut

Posted
Posted

the engine trying to draw through a 4g wire has overloaded the main fusable link.

this is not a fuse as such, or a relay, it is a thin copper plate that the battery cable bolts to before anything else is connected to it. check there first, if not get a circut tester and unplug the ignition tumbler plug and check for current there.

if no luck i'd suggest you ring your local auto electrician and tell him what cable you used where

they should be able to fix the rest.

s13_Skyline_inside Proficient

s13_Skyline_inside

Posted
Posted (edited)

the power goes into the fuse tray then gets distributed to where it needs to go, doesnt follow 1 set path like ecu first then go to head lights etc. I'd get an auto sparkie to look at it just to be safe, im sure you dont want to break anything else by accident

Edited by s13_Skyline_inside
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

manually check the ecu switched power feeds with a multimeter. If it's getting power you have killed your ecu (doubtful) If it isn't you've killed a fuse or fusible link, maybe even a relay. double check the fusible links and fuses.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ozone (or thats what i call it) is that burnt smell when you 'let teh smoke out' of some hardware.

Iv fried audio gear as a scrote and the whole cabin reeks of it.

Not 100% sure, but would say the ECU has a constant 12v feed, and then switches a relay in the engine bay, when you hit ACC. Learn the ECU pin outs.

Time to start hunting through the R34 workshop manual schematics... nothing like forced education for motivation.

Good luck

hmmm if you could point me in the direction of a schematics id be forever gratefull as the only 1 i can find costs about 600 and its in JAP.

wow, i nvr heard of a Skyline on LPG!!!

Thats pretty cool... ! Hows the mileage on it?

In regards to ur problem.. i have no idea.. but couldnt resist asking u about the LPG.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=lpg to my knoledge there is 2 skylines and 1 stagea in aus running gas, but mine is the only dual fueled 1

the engine trying to draw through a 4g wire has overloaded the main fusable link.

this is not a fuse as such, or a relay, it is a thin copper plate that the battery cable bolts to before anything else is connected to it. check there first, if not get a circut tester and unplug the ignition tumbler plug and check for current there.

if no luck i'd suggest you ring your local auto electrician and tell him what cable you used where

they should be able to fix the rest.

iv checked the fusible links but will have to just keep working back from the main fuse box i spose. i was thinking of unplugging all un nessacary fuses and slowly trying to eliminate the problem

the power goes into the fuse tray then gets distributed to where it needs to go, doesnt follow 1 set path like ecu first then go to head lights etc. I'd get an auto sparkie to look at it just to be safe, im sure you dont want to break anything else by accident
grab a test light/multimeter, start from the battery and move along to check where the voltage stops. simpe

and yeh, pics/info of LPG setup

manually check the ecu switched power feeds with a multimeter. If it's getting power you have killed your ecu (doubtful) If it isn't you've killed a fuse or fusible link, maybe even a relay. double check the fusible links and fuses.

i checked the ecu and there doen't appear to be any funny smells or burn marks so thats a good sign. im justing trying to find the problem now. im thinking once i get the car running i will just send the car into a auto sparky and get the battery boot mounted professionaly. how does every 1 else run the cables to the stock pos? through the car or under the car?

regards

chris

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Just to let you know.

Even without an ecu plugged into the car, your dash lights and other electrical components still work. I know, i had no ecu in my car during the engine rebuild but was still able to use my windows and crank the engine. So until you have power to your ignition and dash you will not know if you have fried the ecu.

My first question is: Do you have an alarm/immobilizer? If so this could be fried and is stopping the ignition from powering on.

You need to test the power in a progressive manner.

Using a multi-meter or a test light hook one lead to GND. First measure the main cable going from the Batt to the fuse box, then measure across the "shunt", after that measure some of the "inputs" to the relays or fuses.

On the other hand this could be well out of your scope (as your current adventures have shown), bite the bullet and take it to a qualified Auto Elec to sort out the issue

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hahaha yeah, normaly I'm very good with electronics, last night my brain may as well have fallen completly out of my head. the real problem at the moment is TIME, i wake up and its dark then come home and its dark. so i start work on the car using a flood light and in typical fashion you rush because you just want it finished and thats when problems like this happen.

and yes i do have an immobilizer i completly forgot about that, that should have some sort of fuse or jumper that i haven't thought to check. well i'll keep ya posted and if that fails to the Auto Sparky she goes and they can finish the boot mount while there at it.

cheers all

chris

Edited by urtwhistle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...