Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by rob77

I'll be going with a bosch 910, $200

Is that brand new or 2nd hand? How much does it flow ? (I'll be buggered if i can find the thread where someone listest the stock GTS-T + GTR vs the Bosch fuel pumps grrr).

Rob , i know you've used only top quality gear (and from the looks of it have got top quality results so far) and so the cost will be up there, but would you mind posting a ballpark figure for the cooler/turbo/wastegate package all up. If not, fine, i respect that :P

good luck with it all, can't wait to see how it goes when everything's been sorted and tuned.

$2650 on the trust cooler fitted. Should have gone with a local made core I think or got it off nengun would have been a lot cheaper. $1500 on buying the turob 2nd hand. $150 to machine the tips on the exhaust wheel (cos it was on a rotary and it let an apex seal go and damaged the turbine, this could also be why its taking so long to spool) and then balance the compressor wheel/exhaust wheel shaft and then $1500 drive in and out. This comprises of removing the old turbo, modifying the exhaust housing to bolt the turbosmart wastegate onto, the new 35mm ultra gate, bolting on the new turbo, braided oil line to suit the turbo, blocking the water line, new dump pipe to cat and wastegate line plumbed back into dump pipe. Plus there is probably a few incidentals in there as well. Next is the bosch fuel pump, this week more than likely as I dont think the stock pump is going to last long (not really driving the car hard at the moment as it takes too long to spool, plus its not really healthy running so rich when boost comes on), then 6 new sard 550cc injectors (might go 850cc overkill, just cos they cost the same as 550cc) and the wolf3d ecu. So there's another $3000 to be spent :D Give me a couple of months for the ecu+injectors... depends on the tax return, although water and land rates have just turned up, spoiling my modifying fun :mad:

Whats the fuel mileage like driving around town not using boost. Thats the -ONLY- reason i could see for using a turbo that doesn't hit hard until 4,600rpm. By 4,600rpm a stock GTS-T turbo has already been in action for over 2.000rpm.

*shakes head*

Originally posted by benm

Whats the fuel mileage like driving around town not using boost. Thats the -ONLY- reason i could see for using a turbo that doesn't hit hard until 4,600rpm. By 4,600rpm a stock GTS-T turbo has already been in action for over 2.000rpm.  

*shakes head*

Have a look at my thread in forced induction, you'll see my dyno curves for AFR and boost. The car, once fitted, with a aftermarket ecu will fatten up the mid range hugely and should make the turbo spool quicker. You can see from about 4700rpm to 6200rpm I'm running an AFR of 11.0/10.9 thats hugely rich, plus the stock ecu is retarding the timing as well. Lets wait a few months till the fuel system is sorted and the ecu in and tuned and see what happens. For the power I wanted, and the engine being on stock internals, I had to find a turbo that would give me enough HP at a lowish boost and I think you will be hard pressed to find a aftermarket turbo that flows enough for a decent amount of HP without a bit of lag. I think the HPI r34 turbo is a ball bearing and that hits full boost around 4000rpm. I agree about the stock turbo being great for spool after driving my car around for the past few days, but the hit of power is amazing when it does spool :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
×
×
  • Create New...