Mark And Duncans R32 Build

[Neil]

Yes Marky after 4 or 5 years I know you well enough to know you will have you way mate,,,I love your style non the less. Actually I love your boot lid even more!!!!.

Brakes are my Issue,,,you two really need to spend,,,money (sorry did I swear) on twin masters with a proper bias balancer. I really don't think that little valve and moving the pivot point will cut the Mustard,,,Ha Ha I cracked a funny,,,Mustard get it,,,sorry in house joke that Duncan will laugh at.

What about that Gay intercooler,,,come on boys whats so bad about a normal one????.

I'm off racing this weekend,,,enjoy some hard work boys,,,please no blood I think it's my turn next,,,Oh that doesn't sound real good ,,,,no I won't hit any walls,,,but I will break his lap record again.

Neil.

[haw001]

that sounds like it should work in the rear hicas mate, and bloody hell it will make a difference too! the r34 has top a arms alot like the lower one so you can do away with the hicas rod altogether.

as far as cost goes , i got a really good deal from hi octane for all the parts from the Tomei r34 drag car so has helped heaps with costs,

i think the rear wing will be mounted on plates inside the boot almost out the back of the car and the bootlid will have slots cut into it so it can slide down over the wing mounts, if that makes sense

Can picture it. Moved the mounts on ours out as wide as they can go and mounted it to the top of the rear fenders instead of the boot lid. Check it out on the 34, I'll bet it's just as strong. The wing (gay as neil calls it), doesn't move at all, though I've demoed how strong it is so many times that it's bound to break from me pushing on it just trying to prove a point.

[haw001]

Yes Marky after 4 or 5 years I know you well enough to know you will have you way mate,,,I love your style non the less. Actually I love your boot lid even more!!!!.

Brakes are my Issue,,,you two really need to spend,,,money (sorry did I swear) on twin masters with a proper bias balancer. I really don't think that little valve and moving the pivot point will cut the Mustard,,,Ha Ha I cracked a funny,,,Mustard get it,,,sorry in house joke that Duncan will laugh at.

What about that Gay intercooler,,,come on boys whats so bad about a normal one????.

I'm off racing this weekend,,,enjoy some hard work boys,,,please no blood I think it's my turn next,,,Oh that doesn't sound real good ,,,,no I won't hit any walls,,,but I will break his lap record again.

Neil.

You're Probably right about the brakes, but it's one of those things that can be fixed later without costing any more money by not doing it now. Changing the pivot and using the standard master cylinder won't stop the brakes from working, they just may not work well enough, in which case we'll invest in a dual and not be any worse off. The bias controller can always be chucked up on ebay from whence it came at no real loss.

The brakes themselves have come a real treat though. In terms of value for money, you really can't go past JustJap's 8 pot calipers and rotors. The dogbones fit perfectly and comes with all the braided lines which mate up. Real no brainer. Complete change over in about 20 minutes with no fuss. I've dones some modifications, but only to make them fit under 17s so that we can use up some practice rubber and put off the big purchase of some lightweight 18s.

[Duncan]

actually the only real problem with these brakes is they come in gay blue or gay purple. Brand new discs, calipers, race pads and braided lines for about the same cost as a set of tired 2nd hand brembos? no brainer. and you know we test them out pretty well.

neil you will be pleased to know the stagea no longer has gay blue g4 calipers on the front and stop rubbing in the fact your car is working you bastard.

[haw001]

What about that Gay intercooler,,,come on boys whats so bad about a normal one????.

By all accounts this should work well, though it does weigh a hell of a lot for a small looking intercooler.

Always hated the way a GTR has 3 or 4 heat exchangers sandwitched together shooting the nuclear exhaust air right over the engine. Intercooler, oil cooler and/or aircon, then radiator. No wonder they get so damn hot!

This setup has one oil cooler then radiator. Power steering moved and intercooler moved. Must be better.

[haw001]

actually the only real problem with these brakes is they come in gay blue or gay purple. Brand new discs, calipers, race pads and braided lines for about the same cost as a set of tired 2nd hand brembos? no brainer. and you know we test them out pretty well.

neil you will be pleased to know the stagea no longer has gay blue g4 calipers on the front and stop rubbing in the fact your car is working you bastard.

The purple looks good on the stagea Duncan, I swear

[Angus Smart]

I have a broken front bar if you want it duncan? its a genuine stocker without the n1 intakes.

i could also possibly get a friend to fix it who is a plastic welder. he fixed my current one for a case of beer.

also have a very broken Jun lip that would require some work from a fiberglasser its broken in two.

I like the idea of the water to air cooler, was going to try that on the gtir before i flogged it off for the gtr.

[Beer Baron]

jeff B has copies of the fibreglass bars he has on all his race GTRs for sale. personally not a big fan of the look, but i'm sure it's lighter than a stock bar by a fair bit.

[haw001]

Angus,

If you've got a plastic one that can be fixed, I might be able to do some swapping to get a fibreglass one. Ultimately I want a light firbreglass one for this car, but the sports sedan shell doesn't have a bar but one is being supplied with the purchase, and it needs to be a stocker, so maybe I can arrange a swap

[Angus Smart]

i'll try get a photo of it its got a crack from the small grill bits down through kinda where n1 vents go.

[BOZ22N]

Are you running a seperate water cooling system for the water to air intercooler?

[Duncan]

probably. but now you've asked I'm wondering if we should use the standard radiator first and see how it goes

I pretty keen on a crappy cheap fibreglass bar for this car. easier to modify when we go the full sports sedan diffuser look

BTW Steve I've been doing the sums on your question. So far the car, motor, cage and all the bits would still be under $20k at cheap retail/trade prices.

[Roy]

jeff B has copies of the fibreglass bars he has on all his race GTRs for sale. personally not a big fan of the look, but i'm sure it's lighter than a stock bar by a fair bit.

Which ones are they?

[haw001]

Can't use the standard radiator. Engines run best at a certain amount of temperature, RB26 especially like it a little hot. Most thermostats don't open up until about 50-60 degrees and the thermoswitch on a fan wont kick in til about 78 degrees. Track cars will run regularly at over 100 degrees so need to have very high boiling point coolant. All this means that if you run the same coolant through the intercooler, you will increase the air temp not decrease it.

Theory is that cooler air is heavier and more compressible as the atoms are less active. More compressible means a greater density of O2 can be forced into the cylinder, greater the density of O2, the greater the bang from the combustion, greater the power generated.

Definitively will be using an external radiator. In theory we should be able to control the air temp to stay within 10 degrees of ambient, which is very good. Also in theory, by placing the radiator elsewhere than in the engine bay, we should be able to reduce heat soak significantly. It also just occured to me that we could even heat wrap the intercooler as there is no need for it to be exposed to air.

We'll know more once fully tested, but this really should work very well.

[Beer Baron]

not a real fan of the water to air idea. it will weigh a lot more than a normal air/air setup. air/air you have a nice light alloy core (like ARC ones are even lighter than a stock intercooler!) and a bit more piping. now you have a more complex and heavier water/air core, plus a pump, plus piping for the water, plus another heat exchanger for the rad. so you have swapped 1 heat exchanger for 2 of them. so the ambient air now cools water which then cools your intake charge. as opposed to the old set-up which just had the ambient air cooling the intake charge.

The only benefit is you may be able to have a shorter intake tract. but in a GTR you can get it pretty short anyway with a conventional air/air cooler. and it's far simpler.

[Duncan]

actually we are expecting to keep the intake air to within 10o of ambient even with 30+ psi which is the real benefit. but you are right it is more complex, I'd hate to do it in a roadie.

anyway, we are going to give it a go, if we get everything right first shot with this car it will be an absolute fcuking miracle. its really about trying out different ideas as much as anything after so long of only being able to race standard cars

[Beer Baron]

don't get me wrong, I'm keen to see you guys try some new things and different ideas, just I think this particular one may not have enough positives to outweigh the negatives, but there is only one real way to find that out and you're doing it.

[Marlin]

Can vouch for those ARC coolers being super-duper light! I had one on my 32 and it was a little over HALF the weight of a stock one, but was 120mm thick! It was so light I always thought it was made from some ridiculous unattainable alloy. I thieved it out of an import so had no ARC specs on the thing.

[BOZ22N]

Duncan and Mark I like where your heads are at. Keep up the brainstorming, just don’t try to re invent the wheel.

Good work guys.

[N1GTR]

BTW Steve I've been doing the sums on your question. So far the car, motor, cage and all the bits would still be under $20k at cheap retail/trade prices.

Well done! Thats a very small shoestring