Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

haha not required thanks, I know which side of the steering wheel to grab. its "keeping an engine alive without something wierd happening to it" skill I desperately need.

brad - very little progress this weekend - the rear cradle is ready and mark fitted up some of the bits but we need to do some welding on those wierd little bushes for the upper control arms at the hub (weld the crush tube to the hub to solid mount it), and press out the tie rod ball joints so we can replace it with some sort of new bush too (probably ally).

spent the day putting the motor in my car, including that wonderful moment when I realised the new crank had no spigot bush (lucky mark's race motor was out, I stole his when he wasn't looking). did all the dirty lying on the ground work today and will finish off all the clean top of the engine glory work this week. then back to the nugget, cage in mark's new car and getting his filthy gas burner running, all in 6 weeks.

and to catch up on the last couple of pages:

chris - we have obtained some remote canister g4 test shocks and are going to give them a go. they need new springs at a minimum and we will probably get the shocks checked and gassed up properly before we use them seriously. right now they are just holding the car up. what are you running if not the Teins?

stu - I've never run with a bias valve before and this car has standard rear brakes and g4 fronts (ie very similar split to standard). But all skylines with stockish setups I've driven lock the rears first so I figured considering how cheap the valve is compared to a full bias bar pedal box that we better give it a go. will be interesting to see how useful it turns out to be.

yer Duncan the teins are under the old girl, thought i had been kissed on the end of the damper by the good luck fairy when i seen these just sitting there....all alone...with no car to put them in! Anyone want a set of good remote canister tein circuit masters for a R33 GTR i am traveling back to Oz this weekend.

Sorry for the possible silly question but when making the rollcages how do u go about accessing the pipework near the roof etc to weld it around completely? ive seen guys cut panels out the floor, is this normal method or is there another way? i have all glass in the car too which obviously isnt going to help i assume.

Sorry for the possible silly question but when making the rollcages how do u go about accessing the pipework near the roof etc to weld it around completely? ive seen guys cut panels out the floor, is this normal method or is there another way? i have all glass in the car too which obviously isnt going to help i assume.
benm Posted Today, 03:39 AM

Tack it up then drop the main hoop down through the floor a couple of inches and weld up the top loop properly

That's how we did mine but another way, if for some reason ya can't hole saw a hole through like if the sill is in the way or something there is another way that I've seen which works. Cut the main hoop shorter, weld around the top and then build boxes and sit the main hoop on top of them. Dosen't look as neat though.

That's how we did mine but another way, if for some reason ya can't hole saw a hole through like if the sill is in the way or something there is another way that I've seen which works. Cut the main hoop shorter, weld around the top and then build boxes and sit the main hoop on top of them. Dosen't look as neat though.

thats how mine was done

Wait, stop, don't do it! Cut holes in the floor that is.

Absolutely not need to cut holes. Best approach is to make up a triangular platform in the corner behind each door to bring it up to level with the step. Tak the step, make your bar, cut the taks to drop the step and the bar, do your welding and put the step back up and weld it all. All good cages I have seen use this method. allows you to properly weld the main hoop without having to move it too far forward or back.

I personally use the through the floor method.

If your good with the bender you can get the hoop bases close enough to the body and the step so you can actually weld the bar to the step all the way up. Looking that the 34 thats what they seem to have planned.

Merli whoever did that front leg did a pretty good job. Its nice and snug to the pillar. Takes a lot of time and patience to get them that close.

Edited by Risking
I personally use the through the floor method.

If your good with the bender you can get the hoop bases close enough to the body and the step so you can actually weld the bar to the step all the way up. Looking that the 34 thats what they seem to have planned.

Yeah that's what we had done, plated to spread the load and welded the length of the tube to it. This is about the best pic I can find;

Copyof20.jpg

Merli whoever did that front leg did a pretty good job. Its nice and snug to the pillar. Takes a lot of time and patience to get them that close.

Yep, I was blown away with the attention to detail. The entire cage is beautifully snug against all the pillars and roof.

Peter Muir from Bondy did it for me... Got the introduction and hookup from Steve Thatcher, so I think that helped with the perfectionist result of the job :P

Those front legs had 6 bends each to get them to sit that close... Amazing anal-ness that would rival my own ;)

Alan Smith tells me you guys are good mates :) Tell him to get off his arse and buy Ric Shaw's FD3S...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...