Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

so i blew my turbo a bout a month ago, forced to drive the car for about 200k''s in that period

i finally had time to take the turbo off

and this is what i found

front

DSC00527.jpg

and the shaft not attached lol

DSC00525.jpg

rear

DSC00526.jpg

and i took my cat off to expect the exhaust wheel bits and peices, but all i found was these black peices of crap, (the bolt and grass in the pic wasnt in the cat)

DSC00529.jpg

so where has the exhaust wheel and the blades gone? ive driven my car for about 200k's and runs fine, so ive been told that my engine should be fine and if that it there was a problem the engine would have popped by now lol

is the black peices of crap the melted exhaust wheel?

i just hope the the exhaust wheel blades havent ended in my engine lol

so what do u guys think?

cheers

Edited by ztuned
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224234-my-turbo-is-empty/
Share on other sites

well considering your compressor wheel has shit itself aswell i'd be throwing your intercooler out as it'll more than likely be cheaper to replace it than cut the end tanks off and get it cleaned out as best it can be with the chance there could still be some bits n pieces wedged in there

all your intercooler piping will need to be cleaned extremely well

you'd be very lucky to have not sucked any of that compressor wheel into the motor itself.. i'd be very suprised if it hasnt damaged the motor i'd still be pulling it down regardless to clean everything and check there isnt any major damage done already.

perhaps your exhaust wheel is wedged into your cat convertor?

it was also suggested that the exhaust wheel may have came out of the end of the exhaust, but looking at the cat there seems to be 2 'nets' or filter thing,

there's no way that objects as larger as the exhaust wheel blades could pass through it :)

Edited by ztuned

Question, why did you keep driving it after it blew?

Unfortunately it may have turned into (depending on if/how much compressor wheel has been ingested) a far more expensive exercise than the simple $300 or $400 turbo replacement you already need to do...

+1 for start praying!!

This is what i would do.

Take the cooler out and pipes.

replace cooler.

Take the inlet manifold off and split the plenum and clean it.

Compression test the engine and leak down test. If there is no signs of problems with the compression / leakdown test then you should be right as long as ALL cooler pipes are clean and the plenum and runners etc etc is all 100% clean.

Good luck with it matey

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...