Jump to content
SAU Community

Some Businesses Are Absolutely Terrible

adgey

By adgey,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

adgey Experienced

adgey

Posted
Posted

With keeping with the terms of SAU I won't say openly who but I have just had the worst encounter with a parts seller. In a nut shell I bought a gearbox off these people and during the build of my car it was put in and found to be stuck in gear so I rang them and discussed what they wanted to do. They suggested I just have someone look at it as these things are simple and "minor" but it turned out the gearbox was completely f**ked! Now they don't want to have anything to do with it saying they gave no permission to go down the path I pursued with the box and yadda yadda yadda! I now know I should of just sent the thing back and said replace it and now I'm in an even more difficult situation but the bottom line is these guys took my 1800 for a box and sent me a box of metal with a stick sticking out the top and think they don't have an obligation to repair or replace it. I may or may not pursue this further as under implied warranty they are obligated to actually sell me a product that works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PM me for the name of the company cause people need to steer clear of this shit hole!

much love guys :ninja:

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted

it's supposed to be the whole reason that people buy anything secondhand from businesses- to have some sort of recourse if the parts are faulty.

stick it to 'em as hard as you can if they wanna continue to try and stooge you.

NISMO Grand Master

NISMO

Posted
Posted

PM to please mate.

And more importantly don't back down. Places like that will give that line to 10 customers, and if 5/10 just pack up and walk off they have saved themselves a sh!t load of money.

Stick with it and get what you paid for.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted (edited)

If it doesn't work as soon as you get it, always take it back to the retailer rather than a third party so they can't fob you off with a "oh, your other guy must've broken it" bullcrap.

Still, the Trade Practices Act will back you up. If you get this other mechanic to say "It was broken when I inspected it", plus with your statement that it was borked before and you called them up and they said to go elsewhere, they'll need far better lawyers than yours to worm out of it as the balance of probability is in your favour.

Edited by scathing
SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

SAME THING happened when my journal bearing hiflow from a 'trusted' trader shit itself. i took it to GCG and they pretty much said "yep.. its farked".

Can I suggest the Department of Fair Trading if you have exhausted all other avenues?

department of fair trading told me to take it to court after they contacted the trader.

If it doesn't work as soon as you get it, always take it back to the retailer rather than a third party so they can't fob you off with a "oh, your other guy must've broken it" bullcrap.

Still, the Trade Practices Act will back you up. If you get this other mechanic to say "It was broken when I inspected it", plus with your statement that it was borked before and you called them up and they said to go elsewhere, they'll need far better lawyers than yours to worm out of it as the balance of probability is in your favour.

i took mine back to the trader and they said it was fine. put it back on my car and it was still farked. after i took it to the 3rd party, GCG (at the trader's request), i was told that for sending it to them i had voided my warranty.... wtf!!

i know what you're going through mate. lots of dodgy traders out there. ring the department of fair trading. they wont really get much done but the courts will at least appreciate that you've tried to explore another avenue of resolution before taking it to court.

PM me the workshop name too please.

SHANE666 Mentor

SHANE666

Posted
Posted

havnt read the whole thread but..

section 75 (i think) of the TPA - Implied terms

The purchased good must:

1. be of merchantible quality;

2. fit its given description; and

3. be fit for its purpose.

section 53 'prohibits a corporation from making a misleading representation concerning any warranty or condition.'

confirm, not 100% on the section numbers (going by what i learnt last year), but what they cover is correct.

You definitely have a case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...