Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
I just found this

e-monitor

I will be giving this a go after my next oil change and post up some results.

I was running 300v but just can't justify it with the all the daily commuting I do. I have just changed to Nulon 10-40 Fast flowing stuff, will see how it goes in 5000km.

How did you go with the Nulon mate?

I just found this

e-monitor

I will be giving this a go after my next oil change and post up some results.

I was running 300v but just can't justify it with the all the daily commuting I do. I have just changed to Nulon 10-40 Fast flowing stuff, will see how it goes in 5000km.

/\ hmmm sounds interesting it would be cool if a group off skyline owners got this and posted there results so that ppl can compare oils and also find out if there is anything wrong with there car

im going 2 call them 2moro and see what the deal with this thing is

Hmm, this post clears alot of the air about oils.

Note: The guys at Autobahn don't know jack.

Note: You are generalising and don't know how to spell.

Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 and K&N Filters here.

Seems to be doing the job fine. I don't seem to be losing any oil, which is a plus!

I haven't yet, it's been in the car for a couple of changes now but haven't done the UOA yet

I put Nulon in my latest change...

Reading the bottle, it achieves a API rating of SM (highest current rating) and a ACEA rating of A3/B4 which is right up there... and yes it is definately 100% synthetic

let me know how u go

I just did my first oil change since I bought my car. (5,000ish km's)

Put Motul 300V Chrono 10W40 in it.

The oil smells bubblegum flavoured! And the car smells like it when it's running too, it's cool!

I just did my first oil change since I bought my car. (5,000ish km's)

Put Motul 300V Chrono 10W40 in it.

The oil smells bubblegum flavoured! And the car smells like it when it's running too, it's cool!

Jay Leno, world renown car guy and collector talk about his using top quality Redline gear oil for his car and bike collection. Very interesting video.

Jay Leno and Redline

http://widgets.nbc.com/o/4727a250e66f9723/...30bb16b6bac5eed

I've been using Nulon 10/40 Synthjetic Hi Flow for the last 3 oil changes , this time around it cost me $60.00 from Cheaper Auto, if it goes up again in price I'm going to be looking round for an alternative at that price I may as well go the few extra bucks and go for something from Motul.

I'm also finding the Nulon seems to apear to age quickly I'd only done 2500ks & 5 months since my last change and if I hadn't known I would have the oil at twice that age, the engine is tight (80000ks) so I doubt theres any excesive internal wear to contribute extra crap--mind you I'm a bit fussy when it comes to oil-- :)

Im doing an oil change tommorrow on my wifes Stagea.

Just read the manual, says oil should be 5-30W.

Bit of a bugger cause I stocked up on some Castrol Magnatec 10-40W while it was cheap (Might start feeding it to my R31).

Think the guys doing the 10,000KM service have been using Castrol Magnatec Professional 5-40W. After 5000KMs the oil still has a bit of browny colour in it but engine only done 82K. The oil in my R31 goes black pretty quickly but its done closer to 400K.

The oil looked a bit browny on the dip stick. But when drained it looked very black.

I bought some Penrite HPR 5 semi synthetic 5W-40. 5L cost me around $45 from SuperCheap, Thought id give it a try and Penrite is Australian Owned yay!

The oil looked a bit browny on the dip stick. But when drained it looked very black.

I bought some Penrite HPR 5 semi synthetic 5W-40. 5L cost me around $45 from SuperCheap, Thought id give it a try and Penrite is Australian Owned yay!

my stag has been apparently running on the sin5 but i'll be changing to the nulon this week i think

penrite seems to have done well but its pretty dark and only about 4 months old i think

i had nulon in my 32 and it seemed good

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys,

We all know that Motul 300V is grade V and its one of the "best" but at over $120 per oil change, I just cant afford it.

So, I've since used Nulon Fast Flow 10W-40... and it seemed okay.

I've been reading this shit so much and could never make up my mind... there was just too much hearsay.

So I took the liberty to call some oil manufacturers to get some facts:

Nulon - all their fast flow oils are group III and they dont make any group IV's, so its not a "real" synthetic

Castrol Edge 5W30 is a group III, the 0W40 is the only group IV in their range

So Nulon 10W40 was $68 for 5L (group III)

Castrol Edge 0W40 $68 for 5L also (group IV)

I think i know which one i'll be buying... anyways, just my oppinion, backed up by some facts from the manufactuer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...