Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to sound stupid but from the first post should I consider Motul 300v to be the best oil to use? Where can I get some?

I have a R33 RB25DET daily driver so should I be using 10w30?

Thanks in advance!

I dont think 30 is high enough, personally id go for a 10w 40, if the engine is using oil then increase it to 50

300v is a good oil , its a mixed opinion subject, but most high quality synthetic oils are good enough, i prefer to pay more and feel reassured, I found Mobil 1 Gold to be a good one, currently using Royal Purple but might switch back next change..

It's only got 80000kms and doesn't seem to be using much oil at all, also temp needle never over half.

Previous owner said he always ran Motul oil but not sure which one, I'd like to continue using the same one because its a nice drive feel ATM, so 300v is the best choice then?

Also does the oil filter make a huge difference? It's got a light blue one in there now, can't read the brand.

sougi bit hard considering its off the road. i got a btach of mobil1 5w30 for free from work the other day put it in seems to be ok so far but when warm the oil pressure on idle sits at about 20psi on the autometer guage

300V is probably overkill for a daily at stock power, can't get it in 10w30 without mixing anyway. Maybe if it had 300kw+ on the street, or was taken to the track I would spend the premium for 300v.

4100 turbolight (10w40 semi-synth) would be more than suitable if it's a stock rb25det, next step would be 8100 (full-synth) x-max (10w40) or x-cess (5w40), then 300v (full synth double ester)

It's only got 80000kms and doesn't seem to be using much oil at all, also temp needle never over half.

Previous owner said he always ran Motul oil but not sure which one, I'd like to continue using the same one because its a nice drive feel ATM, so 300v is the best choice then?

Also does the oil filter make a huge difference? It's got a light blue one in there now, can't read the brand.

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

Edited by Rolls

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

I think mobil Gold is my choice, i never used oil using that one, now i use a little with royal purple.. so who knows lol

Edited by SliverS2

It honestly is a complete waste of money. Get a nissan oil filter and motul 8100 xcess or the full synth sougi one if anyone still has it (probably not).

300v is over $100, if you change it every 5,000 that is $2000 over that time! you could buy a whole new motor and have change for that haha.

$2000 over 100 000kms

for alot of people who dont daily drive there cars thats like 10yrs +, twice a year change, so $15/month for the best oil, but lets not go into too much detail here ok, lol :whistling:

$2000 over 100 000kms

for alot of people who dont daily drive there cars thats like 10yrs +, twice a year change, so $15/month for the best oil, but lets not go into too much detail here ok, lol :whistling:

You are right, but most people will keep their skylines for what ~5 years before upgrading or moving on yeah? It is just putting it in perspective, the better oil really won't make ANY difference, might as well save your cash yeah?

Its not like it is an 8 second drag car where it might means you get 20,000kms out of the motor instead of 10,000.

You are right, but most people will keep their skylines for what ~5 years before upgrading or moving on yeah? It is just putting it in perspective, the better oil really won't make ANY difference, might as well save your cash yeah?

Its not like it is an 8 second drag car where it might means you get 20,000kms out of the motor instead of 10,000.

yeah thats right,

could really just put shell helix in , probably wont notice the difference over a few years, i just dont like to skimp, but probably end up doing the rb30/25 deal eventually cause i dont wanna sell after spending thousands on it now..:unsure:

yeah thats right,

could really just put shell helix in , probably wont notice the difference over a few years, i just dont like to skimp, but probably end up doing the rb30/25 deal eventually cause i dont wanna sell after spending thousands on it now..:unsure:

Exactly, something I keep saying, 25w50 $5 oil will almost certainly not kill your motor, probably burn a lot of it and might clog the turbo feeds eventually but it won't be instant death.

Might not sound/feel as nice though whistling.gif

Roberto, the guys above are all dead right. I've never read a bad word about motul 8100 or 300v. But you can experiment with oils, see what you like. Just change every 5000km and you're sweet (some oils may last up to 10000km, your call on that).

On filters, I seem to remember buying k&n filters for $22. k&n are a fairly well known brand, the filter is almost certainly going to be better than ryco or nissan, and for a couple of dollars more I thought it was worth it. Also, and MOST importantly, it has a nut on the end so you can use a spanner to take the filter off when it's time for a change :D

Drift do on their filters too, I once picked up 3 drift filters for $20 each from autobarn on sale, was very happy. It's worth keeping a look out for oil and filter sales and stocking up.

Oil change diy, follow this and you'll be sweet.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/10035-my-first-skylines-guide-to-changing-your-oil-and-oil-filter-in-an-r33/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...