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The Goods On Oils

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in General Maintenance

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scotty nm35
scotty nm35

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others. I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to strin

Kinks
Kinks

Royal Purple 10W-50, warm it between your hands for a few seconds then apply it to the area at the base of your shaft between your balls ..about as valid as any other opinion in this thread

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

F1 still use monograde 10 weight oils, hence the need to get the engine warm before starting it. Nothing stone age about it...

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scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Oh noes, I must have spun heaps of bearings by now then. I have been using Gulf Western products for 3 years now with hundreds of dyno runs and track work.

Considering 10 w 40 is thicker than the factory recommended I am sure it will be perfectly fine. The same can't be said for a w 60 like edge unless you live on a racetrack, and it won't save your bearings.

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

Oh noes, I must have spun heaps of bearings by now then. I have been using Gulf Western products for 3 years now with hundreds of dyno runs and track work.

Considering 10 w 40 is thicker than the factory recommended I am sure it will be perfectly fine. The same can't be said for a w 60 like edge unless you live on a racetrack, and it won't save your bearings.

But oh noes, you blew an engine and you were running GW so it must be shit....

also, head gasket performance is now related to oil quality

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

They will have gulf western on their shelves in the next 2 or 3 weeks i was told.

I contacted gulf western directly.

They're very helpful. You can pick it up from them in Penrith NSW.

edit:

Just to add - a few days into it now, a few WOT squirts, cold starts, warm traffic idling, and general all round use, and I'm loving this oil.

If it performs till the next oil change (and from all reports, it should easily handle my standard 5000km intervals), i'm a happy camper.

Edited by Munkyb0y
xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
Posted (edited)
Enough of this bitching. I want gukf western syn x 6000 Repco and autobarns only have 3000 Anyone have a good online source for this?

imo synx 3000 is heaps good if you're changing at 5000km.

and your car is stock.

but your car isnt. so good luck on finding 6000

Edited by xALmoN
xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
Posted

3-4 years unopened i think, and if you're storing them in a cool dark place, even when the seal has been broken, it shouldn't matter that much, since its all pumped into a bottle from the storage tank anyway, no vacuum sealing and things like that, just the cap and seal.

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

They will have gulf western on their shelves in the next 2 or 3 weeks i was told.

I contacted gulf western directly.

They're very helpful. You can pick it up from them in Penrith NSW.

edit:

Just to add - a few days into it now, a few WOT squirts, cold starts, warm traffic idling, and general all round use, and I'm loving this oil.

If it performs till the next oil change (and from all reports, it should easily handle my standard 5000km intervals), i'm a happy camper.

Syn X 6000 will last you to 10,000km if you really want it to. If it's a daily driver and you don't thrash your car everytime you go out, then you can draw a full synthetic out to 10. I am like you though, in that I like my 5,000km intervals. By then the old RB has made any decent oil very black!

It is a very good oil, I ran it for 5,000km during my last interval. For those who don't want to fork out for 6000, there is 3000, which will do just as good a job.

Yes, thicker oils create a thicker/stronger film between moving parts...the oil has to get in and out of there in the first place, though. Thinner oils are generally better at circulating an engine with tight tolerances and servicing an overhead valve train. The key is striking a balance between the two!

Most engine wear happens during cold start up and cool down - 10w60 and 10w30 are the same thickness on start up, so out the window with a lot of theories about viscosity choice being responsible for engine failure. I've said it many times before: you can't really go wrong with viscosity choice...there are only suitable and more suitable grades. More important are regular oil changes and that it comes out filthy black!

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Speaking of filthy and black....

The inside of my motor is that but the oil is still clean

So thinking a mild detergent diesel oil to clean it

Anyone reccomend a diesel oil for a turbo petrol engine?

Planning to change it out after <1000ks

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Unless your engine has been rebuilt recently, the filth isn't necessarily a bad thing...it is now one with the engine and probably keeping things nice and quiet :thumbsup:

All RBs are dirty engines, they produce a hell of a lot of carbon, which is why the better oils come out pitch black after only a few thousand...so I wouldn't stress over it. Unless you have engine issues, the only cleaning you need to do on the inside is to use a decent petrol oil. The GW petrol oil products are fairly detergent heavy, so maybe whack some Syn X 3000 in there and it'll do all the cleaning you need.

For the record, any diesel oil with an SH/SL/SM rating appearing after the diesel rating will work in a petrol engine.

JGTC Proficient

JGTC

Posted
Posted (edited)

Shell Rotella T6 & Mobil Delvac 1 both in 5w-40 provide very good additive packs and are run in several petrol applications with good UOA results over on BITOG

difference between the 2 primarily is Delvac 1 is a group IV PAO based synthetic & Rotella is a Group III Dino - if you're running it only for a short amout of time the Rotella will be fine

I'm currently using Delvac 1 in my Forester EJ255 Turbo (wrx motor) after the great results posted up on BITOG

Rotella can be bought here

http://stores.ebay.c...u/GL-Lubricants

Delvac 1 available here

http://lubesdirect.com.au/

Speaking of filthy and black....

The inside of my motor is that but the oil is still clean

So thinking a mild detergent diesel oil to clean it

Anyone reccomend a diesel oil for a turbo petrol engine?

Planning to change it out after <1000ks

Edited by squareznboxez

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