The Goods On Oils

[zebra]

Unless your engine has been rebuilt recently, the filth isn't necessarily a bad thing...it is now one with the engine and probably keeping things nice and quiet

All RBs are dirty engines, they produce a hell of a lot of carbon, which is why the better oils come out pitch black after only a few thousand...so I wouldn't stress over it. Unless you have engine issues, the only cleaning you need to do on the inside is to use a decent petrol oil. The GW petrol oil products are fairly detergent heavy, so maybe whack some Syn X 3000 in there and it'll do all the cleaning you need.

For the record, any diesel oil with an SH/SL/SM rating appearing after the will work in a petrol engine.

Cheers, will give it a go

[starwarz]

Im approaching 5000km's myself im going to give Synx-3000

a go ! and if i like it how much is the 20l barrel of the stuff ?

can i get it or order it from repco ?

[xALmoN]

they're now 19$ at repco/5L.

usual price 27. i think the promo ends on the 2nd.

[Munkyb0y]

Syn X 6000 will last you to 10,000km if you really want it to. If it's a daily driver and you don't thrash your car everytime you go out, then you can draw a full synthetic out to 10. I am like you though, in that I like my 5,000km intervals. By then the old RB has made any decent oil very black!

I cant handle the thought of not changing my oil for 10k

But since it takes me a few months to put 5k on the clock, time vs kms comes into it anyway. So 5k works well for me.

And easily done at rrp ~$55 for syn-x 6000.

also, cheers to you for bringing the GW to my attention in this thread, otherwise I may never have tried it.

[Moodles2]

Finally got in on the EDGE bandwagon..runs nice as always..now Moodles is making me nervous..

You would get even more nervous if you read the oil control in RBs for circuit, drag or drift thread (in it's entirety): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110680-oil-control-in-rbs-for-circuit-drag-or-drift/

[starwarz]

they're now 19$ at repco/5L.

usual price 27. i think the promo ends on the 2nd.

yep had a look and your right

Oil change for under $30 (filter included)

MAD !

[bozodos]

yeah but RB oil control is always going to be lacking on the track unless it's had modifications made, coincidentally it seems like tracks is where a lot of these failures happen.

[BuuBox]

Picked up some of the Syn X 3000 for the daily, worth a go for $19, but not brave enough to put it in the Skyline...

[Daleo]

Picked up some of the Syn X 3000 for the daily, worth a go for $19, but not brave enough to put it in the Skyline...

Go get a 20lt drum of Syn X 6000 for the GTR; it's $150!

I've been using the Syn x 3000 for the last few changes in the daily (I run it to 10 000kms), and am up to nearly 4000km on my first Syn X 6000 fill in my Stagea.

Syn X 6000 replaced Sougi S6000 in the Stagea when I fitted my new turbo; I can't tell the two apart.

Even the slight difference in viscosity hasn't revealed anything unusual, although the VQ uses a 7.5w30 from the factory, so at 5w40; it's probably more suitable than a 10w40 grade.

No tensioner rattle at cold start up, same as Sougi, whereas Motul Turbolight would start getting a tiny rattle around the 4000km mark; obviously starting to break down a little.

It's very smooth, revs freely, and the level hasn't dropped at all; and VQ's are known for using a little oil.

I'm not an oil expert like some on here; but based on it's performance so far, I know I'll be buying another 20lt of Syn X 6000.

[Hot33r8723]

Whats the shelf life of motor oil anyway?

it's like your mum

[xALmoN]

Go get a 20lt drum of Syn X 6000 for the GTR; it's $150!

I've been using the Syn x 3000 for the last few changes in the daily (I run it to 10 000kms), and am up to nearly 4000km on my first Syn X 6000 fill in my Stagea.

Syn X 6000 replaced Sougi S6000 in the Stagea when I fitted my new turbo; I can't tell the two apart.

Even the slight difference in viscosity hasn't revealed anything unusual, although the VQ uses a 7.5w30 from the factory, so at 5w40; it's probably more suitable than a 10w40 grade.

No tensioner rattle at cold start up, same as Sougi, whereas Motul Turbolight would start getting a tiny rattle around the 4000km mark; obviously starting to break down a little.

It's very smooth, revs freely, and the level hasn't dropped at all; and VQ's are known for using a little oil.

I'm not an oil expert like some on here; but based on it's performance so far, I know I'll be buying another 20lt of Syn X 6000.

where from? i've asked a few repcos and they dont seem to stock it? 150 for 20L, and scott mentioned getting his oil for 120 for 20L? where?

[Hadouken]

it's like your mum

I love it when you try and get me. How are those fried pistons and blown turbos my backyard butcher?

Did you ask repco if they could order it in? I think 1 of them went to a gulf western office

[xALmoN]

yeh my local repco had no idea. lol

[Old Booster]

Go to the GW website and and use their contact page, Mr A Vicary responded within one business day, as to where I could obtain their product, very good customer service.

[xALmoN]

will do that on pay day

[Birds]

Go to the GW website and and use their contact page, Mr A Vicary responded within one business day, as to where I could obtain their product, very good customer service.

One of the owners, good guy

Can't believe how many people are using GW now. Not bad for an all Aussie product!

[AngryRB]

Syn X 6000 will last you to 10,000km if you really want it to. If it's a daily driver and you don't thrash your car everytime you go out, then you can draw a full synthetic out to 10. I am like you though, in that I like my 5,000km intervals. By then the old RB has made any decent oil very black!

It is a very good oil, I ran it for 5,000km during my last interval. For those who don't want to fork out for 6000, there is 3000, which will do just as good a job.

Yes, thicker oils create a thicker/stronger film between moving parts...the oil has to get in and out of there in the first place, though. Thinner oils are generally better at circulating an engine with tight tolerances and servicing an overhead valve train. The key is striking a balance between the two!

Most engine wear happens during cold start up and cool down - 10w60 and 10w30 are the same thickness on start up, so out the window with a lot of theories about viscosity choice being responsible for engine failure. I've said it many times before: you can't really go wrong with viscosity choice...there are only suitable and more suitable grades. More important are regular oil changes and that it comes out filthy black!

not sure what you mean by cold starts being responsible for engine failures

In the case of a high powered turbo engine, are you sure the most wear wouldnt be when its on full load/boost in a highish gear (eg. 20psi at 7000rpm compared to 2500rpm off boost) ?

Id say for example , a dyno run would give more wear and tear than 5-10mins of cold start.. and at this time the 10-30 oil could be breaking down and becoming a 10-20 oil which could be a problem with bearings wouldnt it? so not sure i agree that viscosity isnt important ,

Ive always been a bit confused how oil can be thinner when its cold, cause when your pouring it appears thicker than when its comming out the sump hot.. can anyone explain that?

[JonnoHR31]

It's not thinner, it's relative. For example a 10w-50 oil will have the same viscosity as a straight 10 weight oil when cold but when hot the straight 10 will be thinner. The 10w-50 will have the same viscosity as a straight 50 weight oil when hot. All oils are thicker when cold and all of them are thicker than ideal for an engine when cold.

[Birds]

not sure what you mean by cold starts being responsible for engine failures

In the case of a high powered turbo engine, are you sure the most wear wouldnt be when its on full load/boost in a highish gear (eg. 20psi at 7000rpm compared to 2500rpm off boost) ?

Id say for example , a dyno run would give more wear and tear than 5-10mins of cold start.. and at this time the 10-30 oil could be breaking down and becoming a 10-20 oil which could be a problem with bearings wouldnt it? so not sure i agree that viscosity isnt important ,

Ive always been a bit confused how oil can be thinner when its cold, cause when your pouring it appears thicker than when its comming out the sump hot.. can anyone explain that?

A bullet through the engine block will also cause catastrophic failure! I'm talking about normal driving here, and general wear to components eventually leading to a failure.

The reason Taxis get such high mileage to an engine, despite being thrashed in stop/start traffic all day long, is because the engine doesn't stop to cool down. They have a very low cold start to kilometre ratio.

Oil is thicker when it is cold. The first number on a multi-grade oil, e.g. 15w, refers to viscosity when cold. The second number, e.g. 40, refers to viscosity when hot. These numbers are not comparable, as hot and cold viscosities are measured on different scales at different temperatures - this is where people get confused, thinking the two are related and that multi-grade oil gets thicker as it gets hotter.

If two oils have the same first number and different second numbers, they will be of the same thickness when cold...but different when hot, due to different additives.

[discopotato03]

Yes the first number is a cold pouring index not a viscosity number . Also the hot or running temp viscosity changes when the oil gets really hot with hard use , this is why oils like say a 10W60 stand up to high temps better than a 10W30 would . If you never get your engine oil really hot ie track work hot the 60 weight just adds a bit more drag at normal running temps . Its really no extra protection and costs a small amout of power and some extra fuel .

Most serious oil people will tell you that viscosity choice should be based on the oil temps your engine runs because this has a large bearing (no pun intended) on the oil pressure you'll have .

Sadly in recent years manufacturers are going with lower oil viscosities partly because clearances are smaller but generally because less oil sheer drag means better fuel consumption and possibly cold start emissions dramas . Throw in "extended oil drain periods" as the yanks call it and it adds up to limited engine life IMO in a throw away world . Most of your average snot boxes are considered used up at 100, 000 Km and thin green oil doesn't help them in te long run .

BTW do some research into ZDDP or Zinc Di Alkyl Dithio Phosphate because this is the good stuff used in older spec oils that protects high point load bearing areas like turbos and valve train components . RBs have direct cam lobe on bucket valve trains where "Green" engines are growing things like roller rockers and or roller tips so these engines don't die with these late eco cat friendly oils .

Some of the best oil info comes from pushrod V8 sites because these engines with big cams and very high poundage valve springs to control big heavy valves need really good oils to stand up to the high point loadings - and green oils kill them .

Have another look at the Mobil 1 synthetic sport bike oils because these are higher in ZDDP etc because sport bikes are more like F1 engines compared to car engines even good ones . High revs uneven heat loadings hard worked valve trains .

GL Lubricants sell Mobil 1 Racing 4T in 10W 40 which is about righ for a street RB , its road oil BTW not competition regardless of what the name suggests . Porsche used to specify it for some of their turbocharget road cars and HRT were using it (10W50 version) in the pre E85 era , not sure what they use nowdays .

A .

Edited October 12, 2012 by discopotato03