Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have absolutely no personal knowledge or insight - but googling around it looks like it could be a lubricant additive in your oil - http://www.bobistheo...e-oil-analysis/

Titanium

Titanium is a newer, more environmentally friendly anti-wear additive being implemented due to more stringent emissions regulations, and is phasing out the older, more harmful phosphorous compounds such as ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate). ZDDP reduces the effectiveness of the catalysts in catalytic converters by creating a plating effect when combusted, and covering the catalyst while Titanium does not. Titanium chemically binds to wear surfaces creating a hard, Titanium based oxide layer which reduces friction, thereby reducing wear. Concentration levels vary greatly depending on oil brand.

Looking a bit further, I found http://www.exxonmobi...UsedOilEval.pdf which talks about oil analysis, and mentions some negative reasons for titanium in oil tests:

Upward movement of Iron and Titanium and Chrome may indicate a spinning bearing outer race if the engine case is Titanium.

Don't think this is relevant for RB2X engines.

The last reference I found at http://www.lube-tips.com/focus/2006_08_30.htm

The presence of titanium in used oil analysis is generally a result of contamination from paint. This is often expected from new or rebuilt components such as gearboxes. Titanium can also result from wear of high alloy bearings, or high-quality steel in gears.

Anyway, hope I've found something useful.

Recently brought a 32 GTR, Fully rebuilt around 20,000k's ago. What oil would you recommend? Daily driver. Last service i put 10-50 motul in it.

Mobil 1 oil, always used it in mine from day one, never noisey, never changes colour, and no oil consumption, its impressed me, even with 300kw and ethanol its like honey on the dip stick... its 0w/40w

I thought having oil staying clean meant it wasn't cleaning the carbon/shit out of your engine?

i think thats more to do with your oil being contaminated by your blow by gases, so if your engines loose you'll have black oil sooner, mine would go dark after a number of dyno runs, but not with normal use...

im sure ill be corrected, now with ethanol it never gets dirty so must prove my point, but its still a clean oil whatever grade it is and has worked well for me.. my opinion only

i think thats more to do with your oil being contaminated by your blow by gases, so if your engines loose you'll have black oil sooner, mine would go dark after a number of dyno runs, but not with normal use...

im sure ill be corrected, now with ethanol it never gets dirty so must prove my point, but its still a clean oil whatever grade it is and has worked well for me.. my opinion only

Wat?

Mine is jet black after 500ks, sounds like there is no detergent in the oil.

[

Soot and carbon buildup are a byproduct of the combustion process, if the oil is still honey colored after 5000km then there is 2 possibilities I can think of. The engine is extremely clean by engine health (good compression etc) and the tune itself (not overly rich etc) or the engine oil by design has minimal detergents for cleaning

Soot and carbon buildup are a byproduct of the combustion process, if the oil is still honey colored after 5000km then there is 2 possibilities I can think of. The engine is extremely clean by engine health (good compression etc) and the tune itself (not overly rich etc) or the engine oil by design has minimal detergents for cleaning

As said before, every engine and setup must contribute heavily then... The engine has close to 200k on it, comp test 175average, zero oil consumption and definitely a rich tune, people driving behind must be getting tipsy lol, hope theres no RBT around as i drive by, they'd all be taken into custody..:)

I would of thought the soot was from the 98 having being made from oil products, ethanol is an alcohol so how can you get soot? it should literally clean the soot out the tail pipe?

  • 3 weeks later...

lol at the tipsy comment.

I've found it doesnt matter what i put thru my car, it used to always come out almost as clean as it went in after 5000km. but with time and some more Km's (almost 80k ive put on it now, total of 145k) it is getting a little dirtier every time. but still by no means black or even a solid color.

My angry old bug would turn the oil black within 2 mins of running after a change :P

I've now gone to the Penrite Ten Tenths, racing 10, 10-40 (stupid name). ive never used penrite before, whats everyone's thoughts? (ive done this due to availability in my local area.....im getting sick of chasing round the countryside look for the same oil everytime)

I've now gone to the Penrite Ten Tenths, racing 10, 10-40 (stupid name). ive never used penrite before, whats everyone's thoughts? (ive done this due to availability in my local area.....im getting sick of chasing round the countryside look for the same oil everytime)

reported to be very good and for a non 300+rwkw skyline that's not seeing the track is a great choice

Recently brought a 32 GTR, Fully rebuilt around 20,000k's ago. What oil would you recommend? Daily driver. Last service i put 10-50 motul in it.

whatever the engine builder reccomends

i think thats more to do with your oil being contaminated by your blow by gases, so if your engines loose you'll have black oil sooner, mine would go dark after a number of dyno runs, but not with normal use...

im sure ill be corrected, now with ethanol it never gets dirty so must prove my point, but its still a clean oil whatever grade it is and has worked well for me.. my opinion only

Your oil getting black is from the detergants 'cleaning' your engine, you certainly wouldn't want to be getting black oil just from blow by.

If you change oil only every 5,000km's it should be slightly black, by 10,000km's if it aint black I would be worried, either the engine is impossible clean or the oil aint cleaning sh*t.

I chnged my oil today and noticed that i used the whole 5l bottle but i couldn't see the oil covering the cams is that meant to be so i read a post where someone said they only use 3.4l.

It's a NEO engine .

Edited by B-rice

Your oil getting black is from the detergants 'cleaning' your engine, you certainly wouldn't want to be getting black oil just from blow by.

If you change oil only every 5,000km's it should be slightly black, by 10,000km's if it aint black I would be worried, either the engine is impossible clean or the oil aint cleaning sh*t.

Blowby is one of the reasons oil needs to contain detergents to 'clean' the engine.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=258648

If ring seal was perfect and combustion was complete, oil would last far longer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...