Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the input guys. Might start off with Mobil 1 or similar 10w40 and see how it goes.

good choice :yes: , i wouldnt bother with some high milage oil, just use the Mobil1 fully synthetic and see if it uses oil first.

  • 1 month later...

Anyone used those Shell branded oils?

Seems like the only thing I can find that is 10w40 from the local shops (the most recommanded spec from what I have seen) without paying $50+ onwards.

Car is just auto daily driver with basic bolt ons.

Edited by Mayuri Krab

would be fine.

People get strangely finniky about oils etc when really there is little need.

If your car is unmodified (i.e. major power and tune alterations), doesnt make lifter noise on startup, and doesnt use oil then a Shell 10w40 would be sufficient.

If you give it a regular bootfull and go to the redline then maybe think about at least a semi-syn, but otherwise, all good.

Anyone used those Shell branded oils?

Seems like the only thing I can find that is 10w40 from the local shops (the most recommanded spec from what I have seen) without paying $50+ onwards.

Car is just auto daily driver with basic bolt ons.

It's on special at the moment. Buy up guys. :P

Where?

also, this is a pretty interesting read!

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Looks like penrite sin5 goes pretty well

  • 2 weeks later...

Coming up to my first service :D

I've done a bit of reading and I was pretty set on Castrol Edge 10w 60 because RacePace uses it.

Here are my personal circumstances which may factor in.

  • Melbourne cold (start-up wear?)
  • Daily (And I live next to freeway so short period before on and 100km/h)
  • Track work
  • 240 rwkw

So basically I think I might need a lighter oil than 10w 60 oil to help with going from cold start to 100km/h in 1,400m warm up space.

Thoughts?

^ if its a rb with no oil flow/drain mods you should be using something thinner as thicker oil is harder to drain back to block /main bearings where most rb's fail. i fill my rb20 up to 6 liters for that extra protection that most do if they dont have oil control mods for track work.

been using motul 8100 5-40 for awhile now with no oil control mods although cant be arsed paying 80 bux a bottle anymore .

what are peoples thoughts/ experience with penrite HPR 5 5-40 full syn for limiter bashing and abuse compared to the motul?

Edited by Dan_J

Coming up to my first service :D

 

I've done a bit of reading and I was pretty set on Castrol Edge 10w 60 because RacePace uses it.

 

Here are my personal circumstances which may factor in.

Melbourne cold (start-up wear?)

Daily (And I live next to freeway so short period before on and 100km/h)

Track work

240 rwkw

So basically I think I might need a lighter oil than 10w 60 oil to help with going from cold start to 100km/h in 1,400m warm up space.

 

Thoughts?

Run what ever oil helps you sleep at night ;)

That said, I like to believe 10w/5w oils are fine, for our climate, I don't think there is a big difference in cold viscosity, but for your situation I would just let the car idle for a little bit to get the engine oil temp up so you are not getting to 100km/h on a completely stone cold motor.

If you have a oil pressure gauge it should give you a rough idea on how the oil is flowing through your motor, cold it should be high, as it warms up it should stabilize. Use this to judge when its safe to travel at 100km/h, if you granny it up, even on a cold motor it should be fine. I don't rev my motor more then 3k rpm when its cold, and keep it light on the throttle till oil temps are normal.

I am in no way giving professional/expert advice. Just from all the reading I have done, that's now my current opinion. I personally run 5w40 motul 8100

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Edited by Booki

^ if its a rb with no oil flow/drain mods you should be using something thinner as thicker oil is harder to drain back to block /main bearings where most rb's fail. i fill my rb20 up to 6 liters for that extra protection that most do if they dont have oil control mods for track work.

 

been using motul 8100 5-40 for awhile now with no oil control mods although cant be arsed paying 80 bux a bottle anymore .

 

what are peoples thoughts/ experience with penrite HPR 5  5-40 full syn for limiter bashing and abuse compared to the motul?

How much cheaper is the penrite?

Long as you drop it regularly I don't think it matters too much. You may as well go cheaper as I don't think the hpr range are a "proper" full synthetic group iv oil? Tho not 100% sure

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD

Interesting point on the oil mods. I'll have to look into what oil mods there are! Feel free to recommend any.

Penrite synthetic 5 (5w 60) is another oil I was looking at

My PowerFC lists water temp, Could I use the water temp as a guide as to when it's "ready" ?

...I don't think the hpr range are a "proper" full synthetic group iv oil? Tho not 100% sure

Correct! The base oil in the HPR range is not a true fully synthetic - most other brands would label it "semi-synthetic". If you want a decent penrite oil, grab one of the "Enviro" ones :)

Correct! The base oil in the HPR range is not a true fully synthetic - most other brands would label it "semi-synthetic". If you want a decent penrite oil, grab one of the "Enviro" ones :)

ok so i've gathered that the HPR 5-40 is basically motul 4100 or lesser.

now 'what are peoples thoughts/ experience with penrite Enviro 5-40 full syn for limiter bashing and abuse compared to the motul'?

its $20 cheaper then the motul 8100 and as i grab 2 bottles for my oil change that makes it a $40 saving.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Penrite-Enviro-Engine-Oil-5W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=324403

Edited by Dan_J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...