Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Generally, unless you're radically changing oil viscosity or the old oil is very old/dirty, you're usually fine to just get the oil up to temp, drop it (don't burn yourself) and throw a new filter on with some fresh oil of your choosing.

Generally, unless you're radically changing oil viscosity or the old oil is very old/dirty, you're usually fine to just get the oil up to temp, drop it (don't burn yourself) and throw a new filter on with some fresh oil of your choosing.

Thanks for that, thinking of going penrite HPR 5w-40 full synth. Or the everyday+ 5w-40 semi-synth. Edited by Zrobe

Could all be placebo but...

Going from Motul 8100 xcess 5w/40 to Gulf Western Synx 5w/40.

The motor feels a little more..."lethargic" during initial start, like it won't rev up as freely/easily/quickly.

Could just be the weather....

I checked out the spec sheets of both Motul 8100 xcess and Gulf Westerns Synx6000, both were very similar on paper. even the Penrite HPR 5 is similar....

Could be just the cold weather...or there is something different between them that isn't counted on paper.

  • 4 weeks later...

Could all be placebo but...

Going from Motul 8100 xcess 5w/40 to Gulf Western Synx 5w/40.

The motor feels a little more..."lethargic" during initial start, like it won't rev up as freely/easily/quickly.

Could just be the weather....

hmmm.

missus mazda 3.

was using penrite everyday syn 5w40.

engine has approx 130k.

went to motul 8100xcess.

feels alot quicker and more responsive.

might be the oil.

I use the cheap $22 GW Synx-3000 semi-syn oil in my car & doesn't notice anything compared to what ever stuff was put in there by the work shop before.

I changed it every 5k km or 6 month & the car (used) to be a daily driver (no tracks) so I don't see the point of spending >$40 for oil.

I use the cheap $22 GW Synx-3000 semi-syn oil in my car & doesn't notice anything compared to what ever stuff was put in there by the work shop before.

I changed it every 5k km or 6 month & the car (used) to be a daily driver (no tracks) so I don't see the point of spending >$40 for oil.

I've come to the same conclusion too, when you work out what you save over a 100k km on the $70 oil it adds up to nearly the cost of a low K wrecker motor.

  • 2 weeks later...

Have read the last few pages of the thread but to be honest it's a bit all over the place. Just wanting to know what brand/weight of oil to use in my car.

RB25DET Neo with 130xxx k's on it. Will be my daily but I will hopefully be doing a few track days and 6-7 drift days per year and I will be driving it fairly hard. Where I currently am the temperature he's down to about 0 overnight and about 20 during the day.

Not really sure what brands are good and what weights for climate/engine age so any info would be handy, thanks!

What brands would you suggest? Or doesn't really matter as long as its fully synthetic?

This engine won't have been started in about a year either, am I best off buying some helper stuff to put in at first start up then changing the oil once I know it's running fine?

Been digging through this thread quite extensively but still having trouble making up my mind, hence my current post.

Just wanted some opinions on what oil i should be using for my next service. This will actually be my first service since owning the car so i don't wanna skip out on anything. I'm willing to spend big $$$ to make sure my pride and joy is running at its best. Through my reading, i've come across some good rep for SYN-X 3000, Mobil 1, Motul and Royal Purple.

CAR DETAILS

'98 Skyline R34 25GT (Coupe)

Automatic

Approx. 93,000km

Never tracked

It's been recommended to me, based on the number of kms the car has done, that i should be going for something along the lines of... Fully synthetic 10W-40.

Any info would be appreciated,

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...