The Goods On Oils

[scotty nm35]

It's a Ford, gearbox oil is fine in a taxi motor...

[gtr jet]

I tried that 20w 70 penrite stuff in my 5L a couple of months ago and it was shit house, however if you're engine is clapped out it may quieten it down a little.

[niZmO_Man]

Valvoline brown bottle?

[Hadouken]

Try a 50 weight oil

[AngryRB]

Valvoline brown bottle?

yeah brown bottle, it has good compression 200psi across the 6, goes well but bit of blow by and a constant dull piston rattle/slap, was thinking bout putting a loud muffler on put probably still hear it.

think ill try a 20w - 50w then, any good ones or anything do for the taxi motor lol

[niZmO_Man]

?

[AngryRB]

looks alright, will have a look in autobarn for it tomorrow, cheers

[MrStabby]

Here's a decent video for oil nerds. Valvoline engineers, but not too salesy. Unfortunately, they don't really set Eric straight properly about synth not causing oil leaks, and give him an out with a corner case. His cognitive dissonance shows.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXqkOZAkXZw

[MrStabby]

yeaha thats true, but im pretty sure Nissan recommends the Matic D for the Atessa and the power steering as well so it might be worth just getting the one 6l bottle of that since i found one for $70

There's a lot of D compliant stuff around, but you may as well just get the Valvo since its well priced, and use it in the PS (and for me in the Stagea's auto since its meets J as well).

Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL

Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL

Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL

[BlazenR34]

So for a R34 GTT Manual (daily driver about 13km each way from work so essentially "harsh" driving) i'm looking at Engine Oil:10w-40?? (any help with brands would be a great help)

Edited August 8, 2014 by BlazenR34

[scotty nm35]

Any brand will work fine, some just last longer than others.

I still believe you are better off using a cheaper ($50) oil and changing it every 5k rather than spending twice that and trying to string your changes out to 15k.

[Mayuri Krab]

Just got some $16 Shell 10w40 oils for my next 2 changes, come to think about it I've being using sub $30 oils for ages...

[jjman]

Just got some $16 Shell 10w40 oils for my next 2 changes, come to think about it I've being using sub $30 oils for ages...

how often you change it with oil like that?

also what mods you have and what sort of work does the car get?

[Mayuri Krab]

how often you change it with oil like that?

also what mods you have and what sort of work does the car get?

Changed every 5000 km/6 month, car just has the usual bolt on mods (TBE, FMIC, POD, boost tee + SAFC II) running ~10psi on stock turbo.

It was just used as a daily driver (auto) for the past 4 years & now my mum uses it mainly for work runs.

I should add they are still semi synthetic oils (Shell HX7), the ones I used before were GW Syn-X 3000 10w40 which was about $28/bottle.

Edited August 24, 2014 by Mayuri Krab

[Humbla]

Still using nylon 1040 fantastic stuff. :-)

[XGTRX]

Just thought I would give a bit of info on my experience. Fully forged rb26 with 7 or 9 litres sump (sorry can't remember) and oil cooler. 30,000 km on the engine, oil and filter change maximum every 5000. Only ever used Penrite HPR Diesel 15 Engine Oil - 15W-50, 10 Litres for about $78. Had good experience with this oil in my LS2 so stuck by it. Anyway had a noisy turbo bearing so decided to check the sump. I was pretty happy, here is a picture of the crank untouched.

I think the oil did it's job quite well and diesel additives kept it nice and clean. I forgot to take a picture of the sump but there were no deposits or discoloration, perfect.

Btw turboworld said the turbo bearing cage issue had nothing to do with the oil as the bearings were perfect.

Oil pump was also pristine.

Hope this contributes to the knowledge base. Thanks

Edited September 3, 2014 by XGTRX

[Booki]

Bit off topic - but what was the cause for the bearing failure?

[Booki]

And wow thats crazy clean, but being 15w-50 isn't that a little thick? 15w seems a bit thick for cold start.

[XGTRX]

Bit off topic - but what was the cause for the bearing failure?

The bearing cage on -5s have issues I was told. He showed me the bearing and it was like brand new. He was impressed

And wow thats crazy clean, but being 15w-50 isn't that a little thick? 15w seems a bit thick for cold start.

In theory I suppose but never had an issue on both cars, LS2 is a stock bottom end using this oil for about 100,000 kms, rb26 is forged so I get piston slap when it's cold anyway because of the increased piston to bore clearance, so cold, the thicker oil wouldn't be an issue I suppose. But I never push it until it's up to 70-80 degrees. Edited September 3, 2014 by XGTRX

[MrRx7s3]

What oil filter are you guys using? Would the ryco be any good? I've been using the genuine Nissan one but can't be arsed always dealing with duds just to get a oil filter.