Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What are the problems with the DR30 rear end? Is it the camber change like a 1600?

Not sure what to do with this car till we get it and see what spec it is? It ran LMS in 2001 so that would be very close to SS now. Eventual plans are for full MS build incl S13 susp and steering, RB cr g/box, serious llightening etc. Might run in an event or two as is and see where to go from there.

I saw there was an Escort in the ocean on that 2001 Targa Tape, is that the same spot as the 2 cars at Wrest Point?

Congrats on the new addition Paul! Sneaky fella aren't you.... not a whisper of it :)

Further enquiries re Rexy's dak dak brakes. Good authoretehhh tells me CAMS disabled and sealed the system prior to the event. Well there ya go. The old fox can steer a bit :)

Other news says there will be further simple steps taken to completely eradicate the use of ABS where it's not allowed.

The DR30 has a similar design to the 1600 and Bluebird as far as i know, heaps of dynamic camber and bump steer.

I enquired to Benson about putting a R32-4 rear end in. And it needs to still be a semi trailing rear end, as it needs to be the same 'type' (live axle, semi trailing, multilink). With the rules you can fix it, but it will need a bit of thought and designing. E30 bimmers, and the 911 RS's seem to be fine with semi trailing.

Congrats on the new addition Paul! Sneaky fella aren't you.... not a whisper of it :)

No sneakiness to be had Benny. I actually looked at a different DR30 drift spec car in Hobart while we were there, and when asking various peoples' opinions on this car on the way back to Brissy it was mentioned that another might be for sale. Just one of those "right time right place" things I guess (hope)? Time will tell if it is the right move or not?

In regard to the rear end, I know the gravel rally guys here have a mod to reduce the camber change on their 1600 rally cars, but for the moment I will see how it goes as is. There seem to be a few 240z's and Porsche 944's doing ok with a standard trailing arm setup this year? I am no expert though, this is my first venture into the earlier Nissan days! All advice greatly accepted.

Still, I look forward to seeing how you end up with it Paul :)

How to fix camber changes..... Is it really all about the speed though? If ya wanna impress your mates, just upload in-car to YewToobe with a sneaky 15% increase in play speed.

Everyone will think you're a weapon then, and your nav will sound like he's just really excited!

It really is more about the event than winning a class I reckon (spoken by a bloke who's not won much lol)

Still, I look forward to seeing how you end up with it Paul :)

How to fix camber changes..... Is it really all about the speed though? If ya wanna impress your mates, just upload in-car to YewToobe with a sneaky 15% increase in play speed.

Everyone will think you're a weapon then, and your nav will sound like he's just really excited!

It really is more about the event than winning a class I reckon (spoken by a bloke who's not won much lol)

Dude, you've got the cred. Just because your car breaks, or you don't win is irrelevant (although it would be nice). You've been there - which is something lots of us appreciate and would aspire to. You're not a keyboard warrior making up crap.

:worship:

Dude, you've got the cred. Just because your car breaks, or you don't win is irrelevant (although it would be nice). You've been there - which is something lots of us appreciate and would aspire to. You're not a keyboard warrior making up crap.

:worship:

You doing the 'two profile' thing again Benny? :spank:

You doing the 'two profile' thing again Benny? :spank:

Haha nah, I'm building up a track car. Just envious of you guys that do the serious stuff. Hopefully I can pilot a jet at speed....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...