Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Me,my Stag Is Eating Me Alive

southern_tango
 Share

Recommended Posts

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
Posted

I don,t know why but after 3 weeks of having my stagea ,I discoverered that she is using half a tank every week (@ 100 kms) :P what is wrong ?,I'm beeing nice with my right foot,but every timeI fire her up,1 line of petrol goes down ,also every time I reverse ,it's like i need to accelerate because it feels like something is stoping the front end(i'm new in the land of imports & awd) any advise will be absolutely welcome. :laugh:

I have no mods the car is mostly standard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/228256-help-memy-stag-is-eating-me-alive/
Share on other sites
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

Sounds like something is seriously wrong, as you already know, could be one of many things, even drivetrain going off your comments. So when you are in reverse on flat does it need accel to move ? or in N can you push it ?

Like all imports, get ALL fluids changed (oil,tranny, transfer, R diff, F diff, brake, powersteer, radiator), plugs/filters changed, as most of them would be original Nissan.

Does it idle smoothly ?

AndyD Collaborator

AndyD

Posted
Posted

I was at my compliancers the other day they change all the fluids so if it was done when they complied it,it should be ok,from what i have read fuel usage in mostly stock cars comes down to not many things,Heavy right foot (already discounted) O2 sensor, overly high A/F ratio causing it to run rich(excessive fuel usage) Try reset the ecu and see if that helps, If all else fails to the tuners you go.Does the car have any electronic gear in it Sitc or Safc. I know my car was supposed to be almost stock but is far from it when it landed with all sorts of electronic crap that i dont know how to use.

chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

like any industry, a few cowboys around, yours sound pretty thorough, stick with them. As for Freddy's problem, like Andy said, O2 sensor as well, get yourself a highflow exhaust+cat, trashing the cat the compliance shop stuck on. But 100km for 1/2 tank sounds pretty major.

What city are you located in ?

Xmetal Mentor

Xmetal

Posted
Posted

Get your driveline issue sorted before the fuel issue because if it's something to do with the ATTESA then it'll be super-expensive if it breaks!

As for your fuel issue, i'd suggest getting the car dyno'ed to see what the AFR's are doing then take appropriate measures from there.

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

sounds like you may have issues with the front diff (if you are sure the "stopping" is coming from the front)

The easiest way to check this is going to be to slide under the front, take the 4 bolts out of your front driveshaft and remove it. You will lose AWD (obviously) but you will be able to tell straight away if there is a front end problem.

Oh, and +11ty for not trusting compliance shops. There are DEFINATELY too many cowboys in the industry to trust anyone IMO. I could tell you stories that would make your eyes bleed :laugh:

southern_tango Proficient

southern_tango

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That was one of my first guessings ,and i did it a couple of times ,on the weekend I will try to jack it and do the other check you tell me.

I live in Narre Warren,near berwick (S.E. subs of Melbourne) If there is somebody on this area ...Do you know any import mechanic around?one you could put your ride on his hands?

My miss is thinking I f**ked again with it :)

iamhe77 Grand Master

iamhe77

Posted
Posted (edited)
That was one of my first guessings ,and i did it a couple of times ,on the weekend I will try to jack it and do the other check you tell me.

I live in Narre Warren,near berwick (S.E. subs of Melbourne) If there is somebody on this area ...Do you know any import mechanic around?one you could put your ride on his hands?

My miss is thinking I f**ked again with it :)

Yeah mate.

Call RE Customs in Springvale/Clayton 9548 3414.

http://www.recustoms.com.au/

I live in Pakenham & take my M35 there (they did my Hiflow turbo) and they are pretty bloody cluey.

They do ALOT of work on Nissan imports and know their stuff.

Good guys as well. Small outfit that take pride in what they do.

Ray is the owner there, but I have mainly have Michael & Brad working on my car.... Really good blokes.

Edited by iamhe77
leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted

hi freddy welcome to the stagea site, nothing much worse than the 'missus' telling you your a d/head, but things should improve if you listen to the boy's( well most of them),your stagea even with a shitty std exhaust and running sweet should return approx 240km for 1/2 tank(with good system & supporting mods ie panel filter, safc etc you will get consumption better than that). have a good search it's all been discussed heaps, you will find most of the answers here somewhere, goodluck.

ps did you buy the car off someone from here?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...