Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Iron Chef's earlier post about a wide variance of asking price proportional to condition & Kms corresponds with ^^^^ +1

In 2003 the spectrum band of prices & values would have been much narrower.

5 years later, the spectrum band is much wider.

Commonsense.

The impact on values by the emergence of the R35 is still an unknown. We can surmise - but only that.

Yes some will sell an R34 to get an R35: but then, supply figures of the R35 is still an unknown.

Could owners of other brands switch to an R35? That's an unknown too. I came back to an R34 in '06 after owning a BM.

Tez :P

Bear in mind the R34 is the last of the straight six skylines (with cult following) should always bring good money for a good example. saw a 32 GT-R on carsales for 16k and it looked quite presentable. If I had money to burn I would put a good 32 GT-R in a shed somewhere. Being that it ran Bathurst will make it sort after in years to come it may even out price the 34 in this country due to this fact. Mind you we could be talking 15 - 20 years away!

:P

expect to pay quite a bit more now that the aussie dollar is free falling against all currencies esp the yen and another cut in interest rates will drop it further

Very true! It is the same case with performance parts coming from Japan.

expect to pay quite a bit more now that the aussie dollar is free falling against all currencies esp the yen and another cut in interest rates will drop it further

yes and no .........as our dollar drops against the Yen so does the demand (well the portion of the market that wants to buy for import) if demand drops so will the sale price.

having said that in all likely hood it it would be marginal in the short term future .......looks like we'll just have to wait for for the Aus dollar to kick again...............come on resource wave ...where have u gone ..

Long term however ...is a different story altogether 3yrs ago people were paying $40 -45 grand for a 33 gtr .......how much are they now ......$25 for a clean stocky .........R34 prices falling are inevitable.

off this topic can someone explain the great variance in cost of importing R34's on some import sites??? a 99 selling for mid 30's in Japan are advertised for around 50 landed but some rare models (Nur's) selling for 50-60 are advertised for 80 -90 here......how does the cost of importing double ???? the cars are pretty much the same ........someone ..explain this phenomenon pls.......

yes and no .........as our dollar drops against the Yen so does the demand (well the portion of the market that wants to buy for import) if demand drops so will the sale price.

having said that in all likely hood it it would be marginal in the short term future .......looks like we'll just have to wait for for the Aus dollar to kick again...............come on resource wave ...where have u gone ..

Long term however ...is a different story altogether 3yrs ago people were paying $40 -45 grand for a 33 gtr .......how much are they now ......$25 for a clean stocky .........R34 prices falling are inevitable.

off this topic can someone explain the great variance in cost of importing R34's on some import sites??? a 99 selling for mid 30's in Japan are advertised for around 50 landed but some rare models (Nur's) selling for 50-60 are advertised for 80 -90 here......how does the cost of importing double ???? the cars are pretty much the same ........someone ..explain this phenomenon pls.......

Demand from 34 GTR car buyers in australia is just a drop in the ocean to the full scale of things in japan it would have very little effect on used prices over in japan have a look at the price of good low klm high end 34 GTR's the v-spec II, m-spec and nur edition cars prices really have not fallen much in japan in the last five years they really start going down in price after 100k plus klms with most haveing some sort of minor accident repair i have personally seen several standard gtr's trying to be passed off as v-spec II etc with some panel damage and when you see these cars up close you can see why they are $15-$20k cheaper then a low k v-spec II model

  • 2 months later...

Current Prices of the R34 GT-R in Japan:-

In the current HPI Mag (Anniversary 100th Ed'n), Ben Ellis the former Editor (and now with Otomoto) states that in Japan atm the prices of the R34 GT-R are now going north.

On his last recent visit, he states that this has been happening for the past 3 weeks.....

Tez

Yes it seems prices are indeed going up in Japan now. There were alot of R34's around over the past 6 months (perhaps Japanese buyers upgrading to R35) These have since dried up and prices headed up.

Along with this the falling Aussie dollar is not helping, Basic shitters are now around 60k landed and on the road.

Makes Aussie ones cheaper.

Have also noticed alot of potential buyers just buy on price and have no idea about the cars. I have one for sale now with New turbos, New coils, Dump pipes and a few other bits and pieces (around 7k worth in the last 2 months) which i have full documentation for. People dont really understand the potential running costs of the GTR and just want a cheapie. Also with not knowing KMS you could have problems alot sooner then expected.

My car has 60,000kms and i did turbos and dumps as i was going to turn it into a project but have now decided otherwise.

Food for thought - recent rumour on the grapevine has it that a buyer in WA just imported a 1994 R32 GT-R with 2000km on the clock and paid....drum roll....$90K landed and complied....

they will continue to come down here. Almost every seller on carsales has decreased their asking price. the R34 GTR has a very small and specific market. People are holding onto their money and as a result housing, new cars, retail items have dropped or are being discounted.

Food for thought - recent rumour on the grapevine has it that a buyer in WA just imported a 1994 R32 GT-R with 2000km on the clock and paid....drum roll....$90K landed and complied....

Whilst on the plonk? OR...

Through 'The French Connection' with Smack in the running boards?

  • 3 years later...

Prices will continue to fall for the cheap/crappy ones, as the kms travelled increase, but stuff at the top end won't change too much. What used to be a $5K gap between good and bad is fast becoming a $20K gap.

This 4+ year time capsule post still seems to apply to-day.

In the meantime, good R33 GT-Rs are available IMHO at reasonable prices.

Great thread revival considering the currenct economic climate. I think sellers asking $45-$60K for a R34 V-spec I are kidding themselves. I wouldn't pay more than $45K for the cleanest of these cars. In my mind, V Spec II are the last of the line and are rarer, which might make them worth $50-$60K. The only really valuable cars in the long run will be the limited editions (e.g. MP coloured cars, NUR-specs, N1, etc). Although, if I had the funds, I would happily pay $50-$55K for a Bayside Blue Vspec II :)

Another thing to keep in mind is the complete and utter failure of the second hand import market in Aus. We're starting to see R34 V-spec Is sell for low 40s, and a lot of them are taking a really long time to sell. It's been that way for some time and the R34s have done better than other cars so far, but won't be completely immune in the long run unless we're talking about a limited edition model.

Also I agree Terry that R33 GTRs are probably still the best bang for buck out of the skyline family. Another great bang for buck car is the Supra RZ. Problem is there aren't many late model manual RZs for sale in Aus :(

This 4+ year time capsule post still seems to apply to-day.

In the meantime, good R33 GT-Rs are available IMHO at reasonable prices.

Yeah, R34 GTR's still seem to hold their value.

As Ash stated in this thread back in 2008, you would have to pay at least $50K+ for a decent one / low Km's.

I have still seen some today within the $50K+ mark.

Great thread revival considering the currenct economic climate. I think sellers asking $45-$60K for a R34 V-spec I are kidding themselves. I wouldn't pay more than $45K for the cleanest of these cars. In my mind, V Spec II are the last of the line and are rarer, which might make them worth $50-$60K. The only really valuable cars in the long run will be the limited editions (e.g. MP coloured cars, NUR-specs, N1, etc). Although, if I had the funds, I would happily pay $50-$55K for a Bayside Blue Vspec II :)

Another thing to keep in mind is the complete and utter failure of the second hand import market in Aus. We're starting to see R34 V-spec Is sell for low 40s, and a lot of them are taking a really long time to sell. It's been that way for some time and the R34s have done better than other cars so far, but won't be completely immune in the long run unless we're talking about a limited edition model.

Also I agree Terry that R33 GTRs are probably still the best bang for buck out of the skyline family. Another great bang for buck car is the Supra RZ. Problem is there aren't many late model manual RZs for sale in Aus :(

would have to disgree personally.

you look at the $40k examples for sale and you will see why quickly they are advertised and sell for around that price. if your like me and many others, you may think twice about spending $40k on an accident damaged rusted 13 year old car with what says 40k kms on the clock but looks more like 140k+ kms... and think about paying an extra 10k+ on a good example.. money well spent imo..

untill you start actually searching the market (photos mean nothing, inspections are a must for these cars) you really dont start to understand the differences in prices, once you do, its very cear!

the prices of these cars are driven down locally by the poor examples being imported in the last, probably, 4 years... and good examples still sell quickly.

would have to disgree personally.

you look at the $40k examples for sale and you will see why quickly they are advertised and sell for around that price. if your like me and many others, you may think twice about spending $40k on an accident damaged rusted 13 year old car with what says 40k kms on the clock but looks more like 140k+ kms... and think about paying an extra 10k+ on a good example.. money well spent imo..

untill you start actually searching the market (photos mean nothing, inspections are a must for these cars) you really dont start to understand the differences in prices, once you do, its very cear!

the prices of these cars are driven down locally by the poor examples being imported in the last, probably, 4 years... and good examples still sell quickly.

Mate, I'm not saying clean cars shouldn't get more money. What I'm saying is I wouldn't pay more than $45K for the cleanest 'regular' Vspec I on the market (basically I think most series 1 - and some series 2 - GTRs are overpriced). 'Regular ' Vspec II maximum of $55K, maybe even $50K. The only exceptions to this rule for me are either models with limited colours or special editions (i.e. collectable cars).

Mate, I'm not saying clean cars shouldn't get more money. What I'm saying is I wouldn't pay more than $45K for the cleanest 'regular' Vspec I on the market (basically I think most series 1 - and some series 2 - GTRs are overpriced). 'Regular ' Vspec II maximum of $55K, maybe even $50K. The only exceptions to this rule for me are either models with limited colours or special editions (i.e. collectable cars).

yea its all good mate... im just saying there is a big difference between whats on offer out there on the market.

have you inspected any r34 gtrs for purchase on the market?

I only ask as i had similar thoughts when i started looking.. I ended up getting sick of looking at all the poor examples and in the end possibly extended my budget from 50k to 70k to find the right one (didnt end up spending that on the one i actually got though).

I know where your coming with overpriced though. Alot of the ones i looked at in the mid/low $40ks, i just couldnt justify spending that much money on them.. i started to think an r34 gtr wasnt for me at this stage, and started looking at other cars as a better for value for money option etc.

really when it comes to good condition ones, they will command whatever price someone is willing to pay for them, they are few and far between and some would spend alot more to get this over a poorer example.

I've only seen a couple and to be honest they weren't the best quality. Maybe I'd change my mind if I happened to see an immaculate one. One of the ones on Carsales that has me thinking hard is the yellow one in Perth. I'd like to see that one in the metal.

Edited by ras1983

yea thats it, most advertised around the price you stated will be of average quaility... thats was my point about maybe needing to pay more etc..

yea that one has been on there for an extremely long time... but so was mine before i bought it.. yellow ones just must'nt sell to good?...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...