Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mark built my motor and it's copped a hiding for the last 2 years without missing a beat, and he's the only person I trust to tune it. There are a number of 500+hp GT-Rs around Brisbane with Godzilla Motorsport motors and tunes.

His pricing is generally competitive with all the popular workshops but you'll know it's quality work. Best bet is to give Mark a call and have a chat about what you want.

A 7 second drag GT-R can't be wrong. :laugh:

Just want to know if anyone here has used them,and would like theyre experiences and impressions of them and theyre work/price.

Anyone in QLD with even half a brain would use Mark's services at Godzilla.

Any good for cars other than Skylines / Nissans?

He does a fair bit of work with LS1's as well.

Our 9 sec. drag car is now under the Godzilla Motorsport banner as a second workshop race car for him. Our decision to switch camps and go with Mark was not one that we made lightly as we have invested over $100K in our car. His additude, expertise and quality of work is second to none in this country and his overall persona is a breath of fresh air in an industry thats not reknowned for it.

I just wish he was down here in NSW as the QLD'ers don't seem to part with the $$ as much as the Sydney customers and im sure Mark would be making twice the money and getting double the exposure if his workshop was in Sydney.

+1 recommend Mark at Godzilla. I have dealt with him and he is really good at tuning and all things RB. I also went to CNJ only coz they are closer to me, but also very good. I've been to a few places and these two will get my business again.

lol this Q is asked alot..

hey mods.. how bout a sticky in the qld section for Dyno Tuners avail. and the area they are in and then others can rate them.. not just mark but others ppl been to.. then they can choose some1 closer to their area.. like matt spry or gavin wood if ur a coastie..

Yeah that's been done before and led to a bunch of headaches, like who goes on the list? Do crap workshops get taken off? What defines a crap workshop? Is the list implying endorsement? All that kind of stuff.

That said it was raised again not too long ago in another state so it might be worth revisiting for Qld as well

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...