Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I WAS DOING SOME FIGURES ABOUT THE LEGALLITY OF PUTTING A Q45 INFINITY MOTOR INTO AN R32 THE GTR V SPEC WEIGHS 1500KG. WHICH MEANS A 4500CC. MOTOR COULD BE PUT IN. I HAVE A Q45 MOTOR BOX AND DIFF 3.6 I HAVE DONE SOME MEASURING AND THINK IT WOULD FIT. THE ADVANTAGE OF THE MOTOR SWAP IS TO GET 550KW.MIN. AT A REASONABLE PRICE ,DOES ANYONE KNOW OF SOMEONE WHO HAS DONE THIS AS ALTHOUGH I HAVE GONE INTO MOST DETAILS EXPERIENCE OF A FINISHED PROJECT WOULD BE OF HELP.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

THATS RIGT ROY I ACTUALLY HAVE THE MOTOR AND BOX SITTING IN THE ENGINE BAY AND THE CLEARANCE TO GUARD TO WHEEL IS SIMILAR TO OLD MOTOR I DIDNT MEASURE IT BEFORE BUT IT LOOKS OK .I THINK THE 32 CROSSMEMBER IS GOING TO GO BLOODY CLOSE TOFITTING IT THE EXHAUSTS ARE GOING TO HAVE TO BE CUSTOM EXTRACTORS BUT WHEN YOU SEE THE CHOKING OF THE STANDARD MANIFOLDS YOU SEE WHY THEY PICK UP POWER SO EASILY WITH A BIT OF FIDDLING IT MAY ONLY NEED A SLIGHT BONNET MASSAGE FOR CLEARANCE .AS FAR AS BANG FOR BUCK I FEEL FOR LESS THAN THE PURCHASE PRICE OF A N AVERAGE 26 THIS WILL LEAVE IT COUGHING. THE STREET MACHINE SKYLINE DID A BEST OF 10.8 LAST NIGHT ,ON RAY HALL PUNCHING IN CONS.550KW. THE 4.5 SHOULD DO 10.2 I KNOW WHEN THE FLAG DROPS THE BULLSHIT STOPS ,BUT I RECKON ITS GOING TO BE A WEOPON.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-498680
Share on other sites

Mate of mine is doing this in a Silvia. Motor is in the engine bay now, requires no modification to firewall or strut towers to fit. Needs a fairly elaborate crossmember and gearbox mount, but its do'able.

He has gotten approvals from transport to do it, however he has to have it all signed off by an engineer and have it brake tested before it will be registered. He spent a VERY long time researching it and discovered that just about ALL nissan engine bays have very similar dimensions, plus crossmembers are pretty much all the same (apart from the 4wd vehicles GTR etc.)

The difference in weight between the VH41DE and the CA18DET is about 50kg. The advantages of all alloy :stupid:

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-498704
Share on other sites

A Q45 powered Skyline would be something I would particularly enjoy.

Deep down I do not like turbos. I am a knuckle dragger at heat liking Corvettes and TVR's and the like.

If someone can shove a 4.5 into an r33 GTSt, I'd like to see it.

I would not do this to an r32 GT-R V-Spec though...

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-498731
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Soulja

ANDY32 go for it!!!! putting a v8 into a skyline has been a dream for mine for along time. v8 turbo set-ups can put up 2 1000rwhp very easy!!!!!!

Eddy Tassone's made up to 1500 rwhp in his VH Commodore.

Twin turbo 6.3L (383cui) Holden 5L stroker. F$%kin' awesome...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-499692
Share on other sites

TonyGTST, from what I can gather, ANDY32 is not putting the Q45 into a 32 V Spec, but because the heaviest of the 32's was 1500kg, you can transplant that engine into ANY of the 32 series Skylines, therefore allowing you to go for a clapped our 32 GTST for nix to use as the donor vehicle.

I know a guy at TTR in Brisbane who has a quad cam v8 in a Silvia also, but he is having problems with the legalities because of weight issues too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-500163
Share on other sites

UNFORTUNATELY TO TURBO IT IS OUT OF THE QUESTION AS YOU ARE ONLY LEGALLY ALLOWED 2.5 TIMES BODY WEIGHT SO MAX. CAPACITY WOULD BE 3750CC. AND YES YOURE RIGHT I AM NOT FIDDLING WITH A V SPEC. I HAVE TALKED TO SOME ENGINEERS WHO PUT THEIR YES ONTO MODS. RE;SILVIAS WITH A Q45 WITH MIXED FEEDBACK SO IT WOULD CONCERN ME IF I HAD A PRANG IN A SILVIA HENCE R32 AND PERSONAL OPINION ONLY, I FEEL THEY ARE CLASSIC SKYLINE SO ON THAT NOTE I WILL SAY G00DNIGHT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-500570
Share on other sites

NO FOR A 33 THE ENGINE DISPLACEMENT WOULD BE MORE AS ALTHOUGH I HAVENT RESEARCHED INTO IT I THINK THAT A 33 TOP SPEC GTR WOULD WEIGH MORE THAN THE SAME 32, IF IT WEIGHED 1540KG? THEN YOU COULD PUT A 4620CC. NON TURBO OR A 3850CC. TURBO.I CAN ONLY SAY FOR QLD. AS I HAVE NOT LOOKED AT OTHER STATES.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23287-v8-r32/#findComment-504461
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
×
×
  • Create New...