Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

fair enough, it depends on what you are after and how you will use it. Just my opinion, one is a Ford the other is a GTR, a motorsport legend.

could not have said it better myself.... :rofl:

no matter how quick/reliable/easy to mod... i would never buy a big aussie taxi. when i look at FPVs/HSVs i just see a 25-30k car with a big engine and some shiny wheels.

GTR = WIN

i was suprised with the handling and balance the new f6.

It felt so well balanced and smooth through corners, no shutters through the cabin or no harsh ride.

Pushing hard threw corners it felt very forgiving and was nothing what i expected from the car.

My 32gtr with coilovers and simple suspension mods still feels it has more grip, especially around corners and things

but it comes at a price of rattles and harshness.

IMO i think the f6 will be a great car as a daily driver performance car, but i dont own a 34gtr so i cant really compare

the two to say which is better. I figure insurance and servicing will be cheaper which are key aspects of a daily driven car.

my 2cents

it seems the turbo fords can be power modded as easy as a gtr and for less cost.

Std they seem to be doing low 13s at 180km/hr down the 1/4.

Amir

It looks suspiciously like you've already made your mind up anyway! :domokun:

Huy?

Well, like he says, he's 'in the same boat' (Post #19) but he's opting the GTR way! :rofl:

Can we all keep watch on the progress of each of you on 26/08/09, 26/08/10 & 26/08/11 out of interest?

Tez

Terry, i've actually already paid an importer to find me an R34 GT-R - they're just having a bit of trouble finding a black one to my requirements.

I am aware (and a little worried) that i may have some drama's with the GT-R, but i am planning for a freshly built motor/driveline/brakes to go in. As i said, i like the new Aussie performance cars, it's just not what i'm after. I certainly don't need 4 doors for a family or anything. And i certainly don't think they look as tough!

For the money, i wanted something a bit unique, not the same car that 3 other blokes on my street alone have already.

Few other things to think about.

An R34 GTR at the NEWEST is going to be what 6 years old? They really arent pratical in any way, if we are going to be 100% realistic, no 2 door car is. Not if you have friends or stuff to put places at least.

A new car is obviously new, and has a warrenty etc. More safety. But you will be reluctent to mod it more than wheels and maybe a stereo.

Also, for that sort of money, I'd be looking around a fair bit more as to what else is out there. R36 passat would spring to mind... They have more interior space, a bigger boot, more safety, more kit, awd, and better economy that either a falcon or a GTR. And resale I dare say would be better than the both as well. There are obviously other cars for that money both new and 2nd hand. I wouldn't limit yourself.

I read the other post on the R36, it does sound very nice.

the only reason I am even considering the ford is that it appears they have built an awesome car. I think a car that can accelerate ingear as fast as the ford would still put a grin on my face and still be practical as you mentioned. the wife drives a vw touareg and the build quality, interior and so on is top notch, so I will definitely have a look at one in the next few weeks.

your kidding, still $58 or $69 dollars is still too expensive. Id rather have 10 medium mc-chicken meal deals lolz.

Thanks duncan, i would definitely keep yours stock and forget the track racing. If you have a look on the supra forums, the rz supra uses the same getrag box as the r34 and alot of people do in fact complain about HD clutches and flywheels.

I thought mine was broken but it turns out they all behave like that..

Honestly though im being critical, coming from a BMW where you cant hear a damn thing in-cabin the noise is well worth the drawbacks.

oh and i also never drove a manual car so i had to teach myself in the gtr, ive only done 1000kms so my clutchwork and shifting needs a little conditioning.

NOT SO TRUE.

i had a twin turbo supra with the 6 speed and upgraded clutch and flywheel and it was my daily and i loved it lol

i love a good hard clutch (i dont know y i just do lol)

ill get my 34 gtr in a month or so more and then that will be my daily

The ford would be so much better as a daily driver; the r34 gtr has a very noisy and notchy gearbox, the engine never really settles down like a nice lazy dog but is kinda like a jack russel constantly trying to hump your leg.

Haha, GOLD!

Your right about the tuning of these cars. On ford forums they have dynoed the F6 stock at 283rwkw and with only the boost turned up and some tuning it went up to 313rwkw. So with an exhaust and so on the potential sounds even better than a gtr.

The F6 may be able to produce a large amount of power but with exhaust etc and the mods mentioned you might be looking at 350rwkw...

A GTR will put less power to far greater use. A car like the ford with huge power through the rear wheels would not be much fun on the road as it would be breaking traction any time you nudge the accelerator. But then again some people would see that as awesome...

I think a near stock R34 GTR would be a great car and I can't see why you could not have it as a daily. GTR's are no good as a daily once you start doing full suspension, twin plate clutches etc.. without all that I think it would be an awesome daily. I would much rather hop into one of them every day after work than a ford. But it depends on your circumstances... New F6 is still a pretty good option, and if you want a comfortable 4 door that can look tuff and go hard it is pretty good option i think!

Edited by r32line

was thinking exactly the same thing.... a rwd ford with over 300rwkw would be very tail happy at the best of times...and an absolute pig in the wet... whats the point of having all this power if you have to massage the throttle for the first 2-3 gears...

I think an R34 GTR with a decent exhaust, 1-1.2Bar of boost, power FC and a nice single plate clutch (270-290RWKW) would be a fantastic daily driver but still a weapon in every situation. Coming from a rexy i think you will appreciate and enjoy the GTR so much more.

The F6 is a good solid car, my mate had one and I was more than impressed with it, moreso than stock R34 GTR's I've been in where I expected more from all the hype of "godzilla" as was thoroughly let down.

They're a lot more police-friendly than imports as well :P

To all the people who say a GTR is impractical as a daily, try either a: actualy driving one as a daily or if you have one b: fixing the damn thing properly.

Ive been driving a 32gtr for a fair while now daily covering up to 300ks's a day (its my car for my onsite computer business) and have never had any drivability issues. Its a built engine, stock size turbos, doing 284hp atw and an ORC 709D twin plate. Before the ORC had a nismo twin plate and no one even knew it was there (me or workshops) until we took it out. At last check driving reasonably agresivley (lots of foot flat 2nd gear down freeway onramp) i got exactly 13.3 ltrs/100 ks

But the main thing is why are you asking peoples opinions on a forum? everyone has different standards of what they think is good on the street. You realy need to drive both yourself, no other way about it. And I dont know about you but I shure as hell wouldnt be making a decision involving that much $ without driving both cars first

Well I believe it all comes down to personal preferences. I personally drove my R32 GTR daily for 9 months and then jumped into a knackered old Commadore as a daily and the relief I felt was enormous. I was so over the ride, the seats, the lowness, the temptation to wring its neck, the noise etc etc. Now, the Commy only lasted a short while and I'm lucky enough to have a Golf GTI as a daily, but I'd never go back, much as I love her to death, to my GTR as a daily.

p.s. I'm old so that may account for my opinion.

First let me say that I have a R33 GTR not an R34; but until last month I drove my GTR daily and thoroughly enjoyed it; however now that i only drive it once or twice a week i've realised several things:

-they're a pain in the ass during traffic and are uncomfortable over long drives (can't believe how much the seats cause my back to sweat, and the lack of airflow in the cabin under 100Kmh with the windows fully down is an absolute joke).

-seeing as the cabin tends to be quite hot you have to put the windows down in most circumstances, and in an R33 the design of the roof means any water sitting on top of your car will end up on your shoulder and legs as soon as you take any sort of corner.

-the unwanted attention and constant risk of theft and/or break in makes it impracticle to use all of the time, as you're running an increased risk of having your pride and joy damaged.

-the relentless baiting from hoons in their V8's, 4cyl Turbos, etc to constantly try and get you to race them at nearly every set of lights.

having said that, i love my car and I think a GTR is a fantastic drivers car. I am willing to put up with all of the negatives of the car because it is so fun to own and drive. Because mine is basically standard, insurance is quite cheap considering what car it is, and maintenance is also quite reasonable.

comparing the car to a 1996 ford or holden makes it clear how much better the quality of the GTR is.

Oh yeah. Go a Golf GTI as your daily. $40k OTR. add $2k for a big power and torque upgrade to 190kw and 410NM. You get DSG which is effectively what you get on the R35 GTR and is the future in GB technology (they are the tits). Totally reliable, totally practical, good residuals, great build quality, great interior, good experience at the dealers. Then also get an R32/33/34 GTR of choice as your sports car for the same money as a hotted up Falcon.

Only drawback is front drive and a jiggly ride but otherwise a fantastic option in my opinion. The motoring press call them the 911 of hot hatches.....

Just another option.

Oh yeah 8.5l/100 and relatively cheap to insure

Edited by LotusGTR
To all the people who say a GTR is impractical as a daily, try either a: actualy driving one as a daily or if you have one b: fixing the damn thing properly.

Like Ras said we have our reasons!!

In your post you have some valid points, but let me tell you from someone who has a r34 gtr, that doesnt require fixing, for me and alot of other people that own them the are not an easy car to live with day to day. For starters they are Fu#king hard to get in and out of in tight car spaces, and before you say it no im not 50 im 28! Mine like others with coilovers are pretty low, especially with the nismo bottom lip, you would be amazed at how hard some curbs are to get up! They have a fair degree of road noise, they fit absolutely F#ck all in the boot, I have never seen one with a towbar, etc etc.... there are many reasons for many people why these cars arent great daily drivers...

Having said all that i love that i dont drive my gtr everyday, because on the days i do drive it, im not running late for work, i dont have to be anywhere, i can just enjoy the car for all its brilliance...

having said that, i love my car and I think a GTR is a fantastic drivers car. I am willing to put up with all of the negatives of the car because it is so fun to own and drive. Because mine is basically standard, insurance is quite cheap considering what car it is, and maintenance is also quite reasonable.

Sorry buddy, my last paragraph is like a plagerised version of yours!! i didnt read your last paragraph until after i posted!! I swear!!!! :P What a fraud!!!!!!!!!

Edited by Duncan1

A GTR34 with stock suspension, mild modifications ie Computer and Turbo will always be the car of choice for me.

A Ford will look outdated once another newer/revised model is launched.

Even though you may think a GTR34 has had its day and is going to be superseded by the 35, it still

has a class of its own and still in my opinion is respected.

My car is a daily drive but luckily the commute is nowhere close to the city.

I have a Jim Berry clutch which is softer on the foot than all the rest.

My ride is not low but the front lip is.

The other thing you will need to consider is...depreciation.

A F6 at $60K will be worth 30K in 3 years time, and may sit around $20K in 5 to 7 years.

A GTR34 priced today at $50K in 3 years time can only drop to $40K because most of the depreciation

it has already had over the years.

So really its a no brainer if you are working hard for the money and cannot claim this on your tax.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...