Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a tad....a very slight tad, you'll also be surprised how smooth it is. i didnt compare the engine though. although for a $150k car it is rather dissapointing at only 200kw. but then again its a merc

They are a beautiful car. My brother-in-law has one a 2007/2008 model. Yes they are very smooth, but comapred to the V36s they are underpowered.

how much the v36 sedans worth if u buy local or would they be cheaper to import?

In Perth from dealer, you can get a decent sedan from $35k-$49k which is cheaper than coupe. I think you save about $4k-$5k if you import it yourself, not too sure.

They are really nice car, inside and out. But I don't think it is too good with resale.

Some of mine from the Extreme Horsepower show here in Adelaide last weekend .... and I picked up the "Highest horsepower 6cyl n/a" trophy for my 148.6rwkw dyno run.

53641B95A3AF4899A7EE0779A340CFA1-0000327810-0002006430-01024L-BE6629F164724D4297627648E40855E7.jpg

BE3E4BB452EA4111ABA7F1D52E7F022A-0000327810-0002006435-01024L-167ABE17A31A490ABC58D7F0374D95A4.jpg

More pics of my car and various cars in the show here (click)

^^^ and I should add that the V35 is my daily/work car (I am a property valuer) and I did a 750km round trip from Adelaide to Marion Bay and back (including 100km of dirt roads) the day before the above photos were taken :D .... and did a similar Yorke Peninsular trip the week before covering just under 650km round trip. Amazingly comfortable car to drive and handles the nasty country roads at 120km/h with ease.

Some of mine from the Extreme Horsepower show here in Adelaide last weekend .... and I picked up the "Highest horsepower 6cyl n/a" trophy for my 148.6rwkw dyno run.

53641B95A3AF4899A7EE0779A340CFA1-0000327810-0002006430-01024L-BE6629F164724D4297627648E40855E7.jpg

BE3E4BB452EA4111ABA7F1D52E7F022A-0000327810-0002006435-01024L-167ABE17A31A490ABC58D7F0374D95A4.jpg

More pics of my car and various cars in the show here (click)

im pretty sure thats a low reading...some boys here are running 155-165 rwkw stock...i swore i saw heaps of thread before.... :)

Andrew ur car looks sweet man. Props. I like that little trunk lip spoiler u got going der, wer u get it from?

Aslo yes have to agreee that that dyno reading seems bit low. Heard most stocks are round the 160 rwkw mark. Have u got any performance mods?

I got the rear lip spoiler off USA Ebay - cheap as chips and painted the KH3 proper factory colour

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAINTED-INFINITI-G35-G...=item2a0a8391ab

Regarding the power, there are dynos, and there are dynos. At Willall Racing, which has a Mainline dyno and is know to be conservative, I made 146rwkw 6 months ago. Then on the weekend on another Mainline dyno at the show I made 148.6. Most dyno is Aus are Dyno Dynamics, and are known to be a bit generous with their readings. There is also a ramp up and Z factor that the operator uses when dynoing a car, and if these are not absolutely identical from dyno to dyno then the figures will be different. You really need to have car on the same dyno on the the same day to compare cars. when we recently had a dyno day at Willalls some of the guys making decent power in their R32GTRs (350rwkw) were varying by up to 30rwkw between the dyno the car was tuned on (DD) and Willalls dyno (Mainline).

My mechanical mods comprise a stainless Greddy copy axle back exhaust, HKS panel filter, Carbon fibre Z-Tube and that is all, so she is pretty stock. Am fitting a Kinetix plenum cover and polishing my upper collector shortly, then will get rid of the very restricive centre muffler and fit a Y-pipe I have in the garage waiting to go on.

I really want to get another V35 on the dyno the same day as mine, and will arrange that in the near future for reference.

I also noted on my dyno printout that my afrs went down under 11.5:1 at peak power, so she is running pretty rich. I have an SAFCII sitting in the shed that I will get around to fitting in the near future to clean up the map a bit.

I might make a new thread with my dyno printout and get everyone else to put theirs up to compare. Interestingly the torque maxed out very early and fell right away as it made more power - not sure if this is normal or not.

Alrite fair enuf. Ders a thread up bout dyno results. With images of the readings and evrything. il try to find it.

Yes im after a rear lip spoiler, im getting rid of my oem one and tryn to get a boot wid a lip attached or molded. If only i was able to get hold of this one:

post-66891-1288669945_thumb.jpg

Alrite fair enuf. Ders a thread up bout dyno results. With images of the readings and evrything. il try to find it.

Yes im after a rear lip spoiler, im getting rid of my oem one and tryn to get a boot wid a lip attached or molded. If only i was able to get hold of this one:

That is absolutely orgasmic! Do U know what rear bumper that is Steve?

That is absolutely orgasmic! Do U know what rear bumper that is Steve?

It is bro. Dats the chargespeed rear wid the cf rear diffuser. Im getting that rear but i need to save up 1st as i still have a lot of expenseswid my wheels ariving late this month. The trunk is called a doriluxe trunk but is only available in the U.S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...